Tim wrote:

innkeeper wrote:too bad i jsut started coming back to the forum recently, i was there all weekend.

What, you didn't see me with my MakerGear T-shirt on?

LOL, if my son saw that he would have chased you down

what part caught on fire?

too bad i jsut started coming back to the forum recently, i was there all weekend.

i'be been away for a while from the forum, just checked in today and saw this....
this solves my only real complaint of the m2, I'm going to look into doing this or something very similar.. awsum work. and great video with details on what you did.

looks like the plastic hinge has broken and probably why it fell off and was at the bottom of the box. those two pieces are supposed to be connected together so it hinges closed and snaps together... What it does is reduce the amount of unwanted noise from traversing over the usb cable. This noise i...

unfortunate.... Though.... still might be workable, at least for me. I am using a a smoothie board clone with smoothiewear, and I can do mesh compensation on auto leveling/traming so it might still work fine even though its not flat. in fact, the i3 k2 does the same thing, it does a mesh compensatio...

I happened to have a chance to play with the new i3 mk2 and the thing that impressed me is that they attached the pei directly to the heater plate/pcb which made the bed heatup times super fast..(like same speed as the hotend) . so that got me to thinking... why cant we do similar on the m2. Has any...

I ordered two of the dampers and mine come with a significant amount of the rubber molded out onto the mating faces of the metal (the face that goes against the motor and the other face that goes against the M2 chassis). Should I slice this off or will it not have any effect? The original link inst...

Hackaday article comment is about mid way though the article

pla was the only thing i could run though it without it jamming issues because as sthone pointed out it is stiff.... i don't typicly like to print with pla. I mounted it with no mounting plate, just using the existing holes... but id did require a special hotend clamp, drill and tap a hole in the ex...