insta wrote:That's probably a 0.35mm nozzle. There's some die swell that'll lead to fatter extrudate than the actual nozzle diameter.

Thanks, also glad to know the proper terminology of die swell.

Jules wrote:If you have a set of calipers, you measure the opening in the nozzle that the filament comes out of. A 0.35 mm nozzle has an opening that is 0.35 mm, a 0.5 mm nozzle has a hole that is 0.5 mm in diameter, etc.

Thanks, not sure why this did not occur to me.

My pre-owned printer came with an aftermarket extruder, how do I figure out what size the nossle is? I extruded some plastic manually, collecting it out of the air with a stick, and measured it when it cooled, but the diameter for the strand in the thickest points hovered in between .5mm and .35mm (...

The power connections should be cool to the touch. If one isn't, then it needs repairing right away. Thanks, no more printing till I take the time to replace it. Edit: Just replaced it. Bed heats up much faster. The (20?) gauge wire that is used from the connector to the solder points on the heater...

I used the laser thermometer on various parts of the Arduino and Ramps and they are just fine thanks to the little fan blowing on them.

Edit: Thanks to a wool bed cover "quilt", it got up to temp in 27 Min.

My laser thermometer says the heated bed connector is 45C at its hottest spot, so it seems your onto something.

It's possible the wire connector is heating up too much and causing resistance, preventing the bed from heating up?

It's taking over an hour to get my bed to 60C. Currently my bed layers are a thick heat safe glass (Pyrex?), MK1 heater, 4 rubber feet, dibond sheet, which is all elevated by leveling screws. And the ambient air is roughly 20C (cooler than some North Americans, but by no means cold. The 4 rubber fee...

WarMace wrote:the x stop is pretty set in stone right now. How do I invert it?

I just inverted the entire x and turned the whole printer around....solved.

The old stock firmware JSC shared plus a lot of configuration tweaking was needed to get it up and moving. The wiki for my model has a few errors I have found, but hell, it made me work for it. I'm now stuck on a new place. The y stop is good, but the X and Z stop are in the opposite direction from ...

jsc wrote:Try the old stock Sprinter firmware from MakerGear

Thanks, that is just what I was looking for, I hope that one works for my Prusa (with RAMPS 1.2). I'm now seeing the matrix of possibilities and wondering if I should save myself a week of headache and upgrade to the latest RAMPS?