Did you wind up sticking with the titan? Would the new Titan Aero work?

Will the Octoprint controller and auto/true - leveling be available as an upgrade for the M2? I have a revision D with a V4 hot end.

One concern I have is how fragile the thin heat break is on the V4 hot end-- it can be broken if you don't remove it from the machine to change the nozzle.

Perhaps the repeated process of driving the nozzle over a brush will weaken and eventually break the hot end at the heat break?

I've been thinking about implementing an automatic nozzle cleaner brush similar to this bristle type: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUeDcgkfJoQ or a pad like on Lulzbot machines https://youtu.be/Hx1q_GJC3_k?t=44 I'd imagine the bristle type cleans the tip more thoroughly. This is a quick sketch of...

I have a v4 hotend, but not the rev. E M2. Using Taulman N-Vent. I'm struggling to find the best settings for printing the body of the metal motor mount junction box, as depicted here: http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3210&start=20#p23535 I tried to print with the smaller surface in t...

Great idea. These lever style dial indicators require less force than plunger style indicators, so they shouldn't compress the bed's springs and give a false reading.

Sorry, I have the previous version with the V3b hotend, 24v. I'm intending to upgrade to the V4--in which case I don't have to fiddle with the Z-stop bolt, which is a pain.

I printed the calibration square, measured it as 2.12mm then entered that into Slic3r as -0.12 in the Printer settings > General > Z-offset field. It appears to have had no effect whatsoever-- the second calibration square also measured 2.12mm. I also tried to do this in Pronterface through settings...

I'm wondering if there is any pro's and con's with the female threaded hotend nozzle-- like on the M2-- versus the male threaded nozzles--like E3D, Hexagon etc?

I've also always wondered why nozzles don't use a tapered thread like BSPT or NPT. Is it not necessary for it to seal that well?