I have an early M2, I believe I've had it for 7 years now! I've unfortunately lost one of the compression springs located under the bed. I'm attaching a couple of pictures. Does anyone know where I can buy something like this, or what they are called? I bet makergear has replacements, but shipping a...

You could have a look at this stuff and see if it suits your needs. This article is fairly dated, you may find something newer of you look around.

https://hackaday.com/2016/07/27/3d-prin ... layer-fdm/

Yes, you can remove runtatlin.sh from the postprocess setting. I'll update the config when I have time, it's a bit dated but tatlin was a workaround for older versions of Slic3r's lack of visualization.

I have a classic M2 with the dual power supply. I was happily printing on Sunday, but on Monday the heated bed didn't warm up, and it hasn't had any effect whatsoever since. I turn on the heat, and then there's no change in the temperature. The external big PSU for the heated bed (12V 18amp) has an ...

I've also cleaned the X idler and lubricated it with the black grease. I still get the same noise from the test gcode, and I can feel unevenness in the axis when simply pusing the carriage back and forth with my fingers.

I found replacement carriages on the Makergear website. Reading this I realize that I should perhaps be careful about removing the X carriage from the rail to clean it, as the individual bearings wll probably come out: https://www.makergear.com/products/carriage If anyone has any idea what the right...

I'm getting skips/slips on the X axis only, and only for moves. I've tried slowing down moves from 300mm/s to 200mm/s, without success. So I've been greasing and debugging and trying various things, and now I think there may be an issue with my X carriage, or at least the bearings in the X carriage....

I actually have the V3a hotend: http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-extruder#toc1 With the V3b hotend it was necessary to increase the temperature settings about 20 degrees to get the same results. Not sure if the same applies to V4, the wiki isn't updated with that info. But experiment with a small pri...

I'd say you need to tune your retraction settings before printing something big like that. I've not primarily printed objects like that, but have tried to collect some decent generic settings. Work with something small with lots of retraction until you get it nicely tuned, like this pyramid: http://...

Never mind, turns out it's not really flexible (as in ninjaflex), it just gets soft at lower temperatures and is easy to reshape with hot water. Surely nice, but not what I was looking for.