I've had really good results using hair spray on glass with PETG. I use thsi stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177F8FM0

Once the job cools, a light tap & it just pops loose.

Although I loves me a good caliper, they're no good for measuring small holes. For teeny holes, use something like a set of drills to find a go/no-go pair, then guesstimate between them. A number-size drill set comes in handy, even for hard-metric holes, and is much easier to find (here in the USA,...

I had similar problems with PETG initially. I could eventually get it loose by removing the glass bed & alternately freezing & thawing it, but it was a pain in the neck. I've had very good luck with using hair spray on the glass side. The prints just pop off easily once things cool, if it hasn't com...

Worn out die or cutting tool, combined with poor quality control to let it out in the world. I once bought a medium price drill bit set. Most of the bits were fine, but one wouldn't cut at all. The spiral was right hand, but the tip had been ground as if it was a left hand bit. Here's a picture of a...

I did a calibration, but the problem I'm having is with adhesion. It worked OK on the first couple things I printed, and now it won't stick. It's possible either my bed level got knocked out of alignment, or the filament soaked up too much moisture (not that it's been humid, and I've left spools on ...

Mine is the E purchased Feb 2018. The part sliced with Prusaslicer looks identical to the part sliced with s3d 4.01 but I have not played much with the Prusa software as 4.01 does what I need. However I may make an effort to use the PS on more parts I print all the time with S3D to get it dialed in...

I posted a functional profile for the M2 and the prusa slicer a while back. In fact I am finishing up a project and have set up one of the smaller prints to run with the Prusa slicer to compare to the S3d 4.01 as soon as the big one is done. Not saying this profile is tweaked but it works.. also th...

As long as you are at it, it would be nice to get profiles for older machines like my M2E for Cura & Prusaslicer. Simplify3D has not had an update in almost a year, and they have slipped their promised Version 5 schedule badly. They won't tell people what features they are adding, when it will be ou...

When bearings fail, they will start making noise when they are cold. As they warm up, the metal expands, the lubrication flows better, and they will stop making noise (for a while). Over the years, I've had all sorts of fans that scream briefly on start up. For the ones that can be lubricated, a dro...

For PLA, brass is probably better. It has MUCH higher thermal conductivity than stainless. I think stainless is preferred for more abrasive materials like wood or carbon fiber filled stuff.