the Teflon lining makes things much less clog prone these days. many of you guys missed out on the old v3a and v3b days. you get about 5-10 plastic changes before that brass barrel was so tight you couldn't get filament through it anymore.

I'm not sure myself. I don't like the new setup. everything was much easier the old way with the z-stop bolt that contacted the switch at the top. maybe everything with the new app makes it easier for newbe's I guess but way more complicated and time consuming for someone that knows whats going on. ...

I still don't understand. the v4 already is a 24v setup. so is the e3d. there isn't anything on the machine except the fans which I believe are 12v run in series....unless MG changed that.

many people used the e3dv6 hot end including myself on a few m2's. are you saying you have an old 19v machine and want to convert to 24v? to convert it requires a new bed heater, power supply and a firmware change. the e3dv6 hot end needs to have a different filament drive printed. here is mine. htt...

that's also what parts start to look like when they are getting too hot and heat soaked. is your bed fan coming on. depending on how its printed, the layer time on that part is going to be fairly low once it gets up past the base so possibly not enough cooling time before it goes to the next layer. ...

I don't recall if there are any firmware differences BUT if your machine is one of the very early models with the z motor that gets fairly hot, when you upgrade to 24v you need to replace that motor. the motor could barley handle the 19v it was given then upping it to 24v its going to get super hot ...

the acceleration values being lowered is good to a point. what I have to add here is that its a balancing act. the lower you make the acceleration the less ghosting you'll get but it also increases the time it takes to do a travel move so now your fighting increased ooze. you need to retune your ooz...

no on the static. its exactly what ed said it was without a doubt. print at a slightly lower temp so you produce less hairs and make sure your multiplier is right on the money because any overextrusion will collect on the nozzle then get deposited in the print down the road, cause a lump then some s...

I didn't make any kind of fancy case but I do have a pi that I setup with retropi about a year ago. was a cool project. hardest part of the whole thing was collecting all the roms and getting each one working and the controller setup for every game. took a couple months to get a couple hundred games...

wait, not that I use it but I thought fusion 360 was free