Of course, but that's easy with the V4 hot end:

1. Install hot end. Leave mounting screw loose.
2. Get 0.15mm-0.20mm feeler gauge and place under hot end.
3. Home Z axis.
4. Tighten screw.
5. Profits!

(Or print a calibration cube to be sure...)

I've only ever printed with PLA with my M2, but am ready to start experimenting with ABS. Would it make sense to buy and use a separate hot end for ABS? I worry that the higher print temps will carbonize PLA left in the nozzle; and swapping hot ends on the M2 is so fast that it might make sense to k...

Jules wrote:Try including a Retraction Vertical Lift of about 0.6 mm.

That works beautifully, Jules. Thanks!

Sorry. I should have used a better title, but I couldn't think of one that both summarized the problem and fit within the title limits. I'm trying to print the elaborate T. Rex skeleton that Makerbot has made available for free on Thingiverse. (Originally, they had just the skull, and you had to pay...

Mine arrived, snug but workable fit, got PEI applied. Several prints later, everything's working great! Well, one problem: a slightly loose Y-axis belt, unnoticed due to the light weight of the standard glass print bed, ruined a print by slipping a couple of teeth during a fast-moving infill. The Al...

Did you replace the bed fan?

I must admit that normally I am not a fan of "online apps": what if my Internet connection is down? What happens when the company stops supporting the app? Can I save my work locally? Etc. But I have to admit that if nothing else, TinkerCAD does do exactly what I want it to do, which in this case is...

I've been printing out hundreds of Ford key fobs for an upcoming car show. I found the fob design on Thingiverse; it's a simple creation made with Makerbot's "Customizer" utility. Basically you simply pick from some pre-defined logos for various car companies, drop 'em on a base, and go. Sadly the r...

And...how do we pay?

I'll also take one plate, smooth/blasted...