Thanks Ed. I'll dial down the extrusion multiplier and see how it comes out.

I'm creating a set of nameplates and am looking for help minimizing the effect shown here: S3DLetteringresults.jpg At least part of the issue is the way S3D slices the top few layers of the nameplate base before the lettering starts. It seems pretty random and when the printer goes back to fill in t...

Thanks Zemlin, you were spot on. After some trial and error, I came to a different Z height setting for ABS that is about .09 mm farther from the nozzle. Things are working well and parts come off the bed much easier.

As a user of this software, I'm pretty bummed. It is easy to use and relatively intuitive. Now Autodesk is closing down a bunch of their software. I'm just wondering if some on the group can recommend similar free software. Autodesk is suggesting users go to Fusion 360, but that appears to be a mini...

I've also had this happen when I neglected to lube the rails.

I'm using a PEI covered Mic 6 plate that has been lightly scuffed with 1000 grit sandpaper. My PLA prints stick perfectly and come off cleanly with only minimal effort. However, my ABS prints are sticking too hard. I've damages several models trying to remove them from the bed. I've tried putting th...

Thanks Jules (as always) :D I've printed a bunch of tests and learned an important lesson about S3D. It turns out that S3D still uses its perimeter speed settings even when bridging, so those need to be adjusted also. Here is a screen shot of that showing the outer parts of the bridge printing as pe...

Looking to optimize my settings. When bridging, is the thought that the speed should be faster or slower? Using Esun PLA+ with this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845, I got these results: bridgetesttop.jpg Generally, it looks good, but the first thread of the bridge didn't stick on any o...

Posting the resolution for anyone who experiences something similar. Turns out one of the heater wires in the extruder harness went bad (broke internally). MakerGear support asked me to open the harness to see if anything was readily apparent, but the wires all appeared fine. I put a meter on the wi...

Thanks, I'm pretty sure there is an iffy heater wire. I tested continuity between the RAMBO (Heater +) and the H0 connector at the print head. I can get it to break continuity by jiggling the harness near the top zip tie holding the harness to the frame. I've contacted MakerGear for next steps.