From what I read the leveling software prints some kind of zigzag pattern in the four corners and ask whether you can peal it off in a single piece or strands... I guess this is how they tell if its too close or too far away. (no more feller gauges I'm guessing) The person who tried it though thoug...

Agreed on the bed fan, I'm really hoping its something that can be 3d printed and used on the M2.

MakerGear M2 (24V V4 hotend) should be fine.

The M2 and the M3 are virtually the same, however the M3 obviously has a bunch of upgrades over the M2.

As for suggestions, a means to rigidly lock X-Y-Z would be a big help when attempting to remove a part from the print bed. Keep up the good work. Personally I don't think that would be a wise practice. Better to remove the bed so you aren't stressing any of the drive/support components while removi...

zemlin wrote:I haven't seen a plugin, but I created custom control buttons I use for leveling the bed.

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I can share the details of the scripts later, if you like. There's not much to it.

I would love to get more info on this. Hopefully its something I can figure out.

In short, you can not to my knowledge repair the linear bearing, you will need to replace it. The fan should be be fine, as long as both are the same voltage. All printed parts can be found here: https://github.com/MakerGear/M2 Edit: Clips are here: https://github.com/MakerGear/M2/blob/master/Printe...

I would be interested as well in the upgrade to the independent dual.

I came to the same conclusion and removed mine.

You can look for the V4 hotend instructions.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0030/ ... 7274837590

Slightly increase your Z Gap. I'm talking like 0.01mm. It's clearly squishing too much.

Allow for proper cooling time.

You could always add in additional lengths of wires and have the power supply further from the machine.