Given the danger of hitting the 50mm fan into binder clips (if you use them and aren't careful about the starting g-code), a more flimsy bracket is actually a bit helpful - means there is a known weak point that'll either bend, break or flex to protect the extruder if the fan catches anything. Also ...

The z-limit switch shouldn't move super easily, but mine can be moved by hand (rotated fairly easily, sliding up and down is a bit more difficult). As long as its not going to move when the switch lever is engaged it will be fine. Some see the easily rotating as a 'feature', as I have heard it menti...

Also, if its feasible to print the 10x1.5 edge on the bed (rather than the 10x7), then you can rotate it should easily fit. This is highly dependent on what the model is though, and what direction it makes sense to print in.

The glass is exactly 10" long, but I just checked my printer, and against the y-endstop my hotend is about 2mm onto the build plate. So you might have to tweak the endstop a bit to get the hotend right back to the edge.

Try connecting directly to the IP of the pi, rather than http://octopi.local At a guess, however the name resolution stuff works, it doesn't translate across the different network interfaces on the router (wifi/ethernet) properly. I've seen similar problems, where it'll only work from some machines,...

I followed them when I got my kit in July, and they were fine.
There were 2 very minor mistakes I found, that I describe here: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1126&p=3503#p3503

You can minimize the curling by cooling the material as much as possible after it has been extruded : Make sure the bed fan is running. If the overhang is only on one side of the model (rather than all around), then orient the model so the overhang points forward to get maximum cooling from the bed ...

Very nice!

I giggled a bit when they had a shot of someone assembling these precision machines, with a hammer.
Also, whats with the MEGA perimeter on the red lion/vase print in the pictures ? I assume just to look cool ?

Yes, you need to use something to make the prints stick. Glue stick, hairspray, kapton tape, abs slurry, or even some specialized build surfaces you can buy. Everyone has their favourite. Kapton tape is included with the printer, and the rest are easy to make/buy from stuff from local stores. There ...

My guess would be that whatever bed adhesion method you use, failed to work properly, perhaps at the edges of the bed where you aren't used to printing very often (ie, you didn't spray enough hairspray, or put down enough glue at the edge). Mid-print something became detached, got gooped up onto the...