I plan to just use clips for a while before I commit to bonding this to my glass - though my glass is getting fractured now so it would not be bad to bond something to it.

Yes. If you look at my remix of it I made four build plates for an M2 size bed.

I bought drill rod, screws, and metric drills from McMaster for the pins. Cost $20 in hardware for metal parts for two clocks.

Yes, it is improved.

The best thing is one profile for all materials.

This is Hatchbox gold PLA from Amazon.

Ok, I bought some. We shall see if I like it.

I have had no problems with PC so far.

I wish I had a list of who used it. The only ready-made filament sold as MG-94 is $45 per Kg. Then again, ABS smells toxic when you print it, and I may as well use PETG unless I need a specific color.

Jsc helped me unify all of my settings and materials into one file. I have been using this for a while with great results.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806946

I have printed plate after plate of parts with no problems:

I don't like unbranded filament as it seems more likely to change. I don't print Yodas and figurines but pretty much only do engineered parts. I want stability. So if I find a brand that works, I will stick with it until I have a reason not to - so I am fine with paying $22 to $32 per roll. I won't ...

Pretty sure the four 3D printers that my kid's school has just sit. It takes a rare person to be able to make use of such tools. They are really only useful if you can 3D model stuff. The good news is that if I was a kid there, I would have it all to myself - like I did with the computers before I h...

I would use glue stick on glass. It has worked for everything so far, including PC. If you want I can try printing it. I can go up to 295C. I suggest going at 3200 mm/min (50% of that on first layer) and having the first layer be 120% thick and having the nozzle be low to lay a wide bead. Use 0.2mm ...