Didn't find any info on the motor itself. I checked around, and managed to find a similar-ish motor locally. It was a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Z-motor. The original motor didn't have a connector, the wires simply disappeared into the casing. So I had to cut the wires, and then figure out which wires wen...

For future reference, I found replacements from Smalley with part number C056-H3. Not easy to order directly, but I managed to source a couple.

After reading info on the MakerGear wiki for the first time in quite a while, I found: Check that the X and Y belts are the correct tension - with the bed or extruder at the opposite end of travel from the motor, pinch the belt together ~1 inch (25mm) from the edge of the motor drive pulley; it shou...

Hello, It's been a long time since I've posted here, but my trusty M2 (1. gen) is still with me. I've taken up a project that requires some level of accuracy, but something is amiss. My extrusions are really uneven. I'm attaching photos of a couple of prints as they look under a 20x microscope. Thos...

I have an early M2, I believe I've had it for 7 years now! I've unfortunately lost one of the compression springs located under the bed. I'm attaching a couple of pictures. Does anyone know where I can buy something like this, or what they are called? I bet makergear has replacements, but shipping a...

You could have a look at this stuff and see if it suits your needs. This article is fairly dated, you may find something newer of you look around.

https://hackaday.com/2016/07/27/3d-prin ... layer-fdm/

Yes, you can remove runtatlin.sh from the postprocess setting. I'll update the config when I have time, it's a bit dated but tatlin was a workaround for older versions of Slic3r's lack of visualization.

I have a classic M2 with the dual power supply. I was happily printing on Sunday, but on Monday the heated bed didn't warm up, and it hasn't had any effect whatsoever since. I turn on the heat, and then there's no change in the temperature. The external big PSU for the heated bed (12V 18amp) has an ...

I've also cleaned the X idler and lubricated it with the black grease. I still get the same noise from the test gcode, and I can feel unevenness in the axis when simply pusing the carriage back and forth with my fingers.

I found replacement carriages on the Makergear website. Reading this I realize that I should perhaps be careful about removing the X carriage from the rail to clean it, as the individual bearings wll probably come out: https://www.makergear.com/products/carriage If anyone has any idea what the right...