Perhaps what's going on here is the equivalent of a fancy gcode viewer with color data mapped on top. So basically, the color mixing device reads the slicer code and says "layer 0 to layer 50 is color 'a', which works out to 'b' mm of filament", and "layers 51 to 100 are color 'c', which is 'd' mm o...

You could try Skanect: http://skanect.occipital.com/ You can download a free-for-personal-use version and I believe it only requires a microsoft kinect (or equivalent hardware). I'm not sure it'll suit your needs, but for that price it's probably worth a try. Going back to how you want to use the sc...

You will also want to keep your filament roll as dust-free as possible, since particulate contamination could potentially clog the extruder. To that end, you might want to either remove and store your filament it when not in use (probably only worth if if the machine will be idle for several days) o...

I suggest these barnacles, which I scanned and uploaded: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25675/#files I have been meaning to come back and print these again, since I think they nicely illustrate the ability of 3D printers to create complex organic shapes. The posted license on thingiverse is non-co...

Would it be possible for you to post some photos of the failed print and perhaps your model and gcode file? Absent those it will be hard to pin down. Having said that, my first guess is that either your bed is not level or that your Z-height is incorrect. I would try re-leveling the bed and using th...

I'm sorry to say that I don't have any idea how you should proceed forward using .vrml files - apart from suggesting that you check the documentation on your software to see what filetypes it supports. I don't think switching filetype is going to solve this problem, since it has nothing to do with t...

I don't claim to be an expert, but as I understand it the issue is that STL files are surface files wherein the surfaces have been constructed from triangular facets. In other words, when you export a model to STL whatever geometry you originally had goes away and is replaced with a set of planar tr...

Reading through the google group postings about this issue I came across multiple accounts where the molex connector was replaced and subsequently melted again. It wasn't clear to me that in all cases both halves of the connector were replaced, but it was enough to make me doubt that option. I also ...

After consideration, I have opted for solution 2). I'll update this thread with success or failure after I finish. It also seems like I'll need a modified electronics enclosure with some kind of strain relief; when completed I'll post a link to that as well.

I have just come down with a case of melted power connector, here manifested as loss of power to the HBP and fusing of the male and female 6 pin connector where the power supplies mate with the RAMBo. This is an old-style two power brick supply and a RAMBo 1.0d. So far I've read through a number of ...