So the whole blow torch method I’ve never tried kinda confused about. Do I just heat the shit out of it and call it good with the blow torch? Was going to go back to play and see if I have the same problem Basically yeah... you take the nozzle off and just heat it up to burn out any crap that is in...

The SD card is in the Raspberry Pi. (I assume they are using Pi's) The Pi is housed in the smaller box on the base of the printer. (the one on the left) You would need to remove the SD card from the PI and then follow this tutorial to copy it. https://www.howtogeek.com/341944/how-to-clone-your-raspb...

Could be the filament.... try a different roll and see if that fixes the problem. Or if that's the only roll of PETG you have if it stops extruding a again measure the filament where it stop extruding and see if it's in spec. I've had a similar experience with ABS once and couldn't figure it out.......

Hopefully you figured this out by now but here's the condensed version as I remember it. Unzip Arduino (it has to be 1.5.5) to a folder on your computer. Run Arduino when done. Under the "Tools" tab Set Board to (Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560) Set Processor to (Atmega2560 (Mega 2560) Set Port to...

Does the Ultra one still use printed parts such as the exruders or is it total different than the M2/3's? What does it use for hotends?

-Steve

perhaps I need to change a code for that bigger nozzel? maybe the feedrate of the extruder? Yes... you can not run the same gcode for different sized nozzles. You need to go through and reslice the part and set the extrusion rate to the machine you are printing the part on if it has a different siz...

I don't know why the barrel would be spinning in the block but just so you know you can just buy new barrels (the snapped part) ... you don't need new hot ends every time. Just drop MG a email and tell them you need just the barrels.

-Steve

Looks like a V3B to me but there were two revisions apparently. http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-extruder

You will probably have to print at a higher temp with the SS nozzle over the stock brass one too... that might be some of your problem. If you are not printing some hard to print or abrasive plastic... just stick to the brass nozzle.

jhaupt wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 05, 2019 4:09 pm

It is however frustrating that Makergear doesn't seem to support hardened steel components as "official" parts.

Do the stainless ones not count as hardened?
https://www.makergear.com/collections/p ... -stainless