when that layer shift happened, was the part already curling up? your nozzle may have hit the side of the print and skipped a step.

If you post the models that you are interested in printing here I'm sure some people may give it a shot and at least post pics of the result, then you can determine yourself.

psd wrote: I am never going back to PLA!

I said the same nearly a year ago, It's a quality material but I am finding that sometimes PLA is less of a headache.

The limit switch has 3 poles, one of which is not used. check to see if one side of the LED is shorting out on the 3rd pole. I noticed while i had the limit switch off that it was easy to short out the LED wire to turn it on.

Would I need a high quality indicator for leveling the bed? I was hoping to just buy one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Surface-Smoothnes ... =indicator

when you close your computer while still plugged in, I'm sure the computer sends out a signal on the USB to disconnect, which is a gamble on the SD print. I have done similar where i disconnected my laptop on an SD print and then came back, plugged it in and it stopped the print. Seems that the most...

well I don't use that software so I know it by a different name. (Z Offset) you could always try it out and see what happens! (I'm not liable for anything broken while taking this piece of advice)

If this is a "rod" for a slatwall, does it need to be perfectly round? maybe a square tube would work just as well?

This is the point where you need to consider the limitations of the machine when designing for a specific purpose.

Not sure if there was actually a problem...
Or just here to advertise for GeckoTek....

I would look to the z height. set your z offset to -0.10 for starters and see what you get.

your hot end seems very high up in the extruder clamp. could someone else comment on if that is a good choice or not?
maybe the clamp screw is loose and the hot end got knocked?