Jimc, I like yours (and it reminded me of one we made last year, image attached and .stl available if anyone wants it). I do like the idea of keychains... (I also have a bigfoot with a keyring hole through the back of his hair, which makes a nice keychain at 25% of standard bigfoot size).

Folks, as anyone who's purchased an M2 knows, we ship the printer with some sample gcode files on the SD card (a bigfoot bust, a bracelet, a twisted hexagon vase thing, and for a while a glider); those prints are getting a bit old, though, so I'm looking into getting together some new gcode to inclu...

Jsc's method generally works best when you want precision, but honestly I generally just eyeball it and round to the nearest mm (/ half quarter etc. mm) or .001" (depending on what unit system the rest of the part uses - on the M2 we mix a bit, but generally use metric, so most of our holes are on h...

An update on our spam issues - we've implemented another layer of protection on the registration page, that seems to have blocked spam account registrations (went from 1-5 accounts per hour, with the occasional hour skipped, to 0 spam accounts registered in two full days). I still need to go through...

It sounds like the Fan1 MOSFET has been damaged from that short - if it doesn't respond to M108, it means that it's not being controlled by the Atmega µC at all. You may need to modify the firmware to use the Heat1 output for the 40mm fans. If you send a picture of your RAMBo, I may be able to deter...

Helix, one thing that's definitely off with that hotend, is the gap between PEEK insulator and Alumin um heater block - it should be 2.5-3mm, not the <1mm shown in your picture. http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-hotend-assembly has instructions for that - was that the one you replaced, or did you asse...