Okay, if your cube is getting shorter, that's correct, don't add any more negatives to your Z-Offset. If your current Z-Offset is -0.28 mm , the new value should be -0.20 mm in the Z-Offset slot, if your cube height is 1.92 mm . Sticking with the formula is the quickest way to zero in on the correc...

many ways to skin a cat. ill toss mine out there. I have always left all my offsets at zero and first layer height at 100%. I never change my first layer gap in the software. for me it was just too easy to get screwed up from one profile to the next. to make things easy I set my z adjustment bolt u...

Yes but if I do my print becomes too short. I'm zeroing in on 1.92mm for the height of the cube. So based on your calibration post I should add 8 to my Z offset...which at this point brings me back to -20

Yes I'm using mm...

I had it still set to 100%, but it was something I was meaning to ask you about the layer height..

I did another calibration square with the added -4 and got a bit of a glassy surface on the bottom..I keep re-testing with my caliper, so I'll play with that...

Thanks Jules! I had used your write-up to set my Z, I just wasn't sure if there was a reason to reset the first layer height to anything but 100%...Based on your response it makes sense to leave it that way.. I will say that at the moment, my Z offset is -24...I know your write-up says anything over...

Much better! Almost there.....needs just a touch more adjustment on the Z-Offset. I can still see individual threads in the bottom of the print. It will be a smooth surface, just like you had on the PLA, when you have it set correctly. Bring the bed in a little closer - (maybe a negative -0.04 adde...

Update: I reset my Z, re-calibrated and adjusted my S3D settings and had a much more successful print! I had some stings on the interior, but they were easily removed with an exact knife. The exterior looks much better (except for some white residue from the glass/hairspray I assume..maybe time to c...

At any point did the hot end get turned or twisted in the clamp? If the heater block is not perpendicular to the x-axis rail, you will sometimes see uneven extrusion between one side of the calibration cube and the other. (One wall will be significantly thinner than the others.) Not that I am aware...

If you are using S3d then just look at the print preview window and scroll through the layers to see what it is doing. Yes I did that and from what I can tell it seems like its a single thread going around the cube. I even played with gcode analyzer however it's view is a bit strange to me since it...

different thicknesses on different "walls" of the printed calibration cube Preview the actual G-Code paths (perhaps using http://gcode.ws/ to make absolutely sure that each wall has exactly one thread. The slicer will do its best to fill your model with plastic and, for example, may decide to use o...