I have my eye on this: http://makergeeks.com/allmejhed3me.html and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with it. I like the fact that it's all metal; the high amount of printing I do puts unusual wear on the plastic groovemounts.

Update:

I still can't control the 40 mm fans, but I have a workaround. The bed fan and the 40 mm fans are now all powered by the Fan2 MOSFET. When I don't need the bed fan to be on, I simply unplug its connector.

Update: I tested the thermistor that led to the explosion, and it has a bad connection that gives fluctuating readings. So if I were to guess, the bad wiring somehow gave false low temp readings, leading to overheating. The overheated hot end then melted the groovemount's threads and turned the fila...

So maybe a week ago I installed a new thermistor in my hot end, and I've had to increasingly run it at higher and higher temperatures to get the PLA to flow normally. I tried multiple, reliable filaments, and they all had flow issues at the normal temperatures. After needing to turn it up to "260 C"...

I have had only excellent experience with Filament Direct's grey PLA (my current supplier), as well as ToyBuilder Lab's PLA. Matterhacker's basic filament is sometimes good and sometimes bad. Of course Makergear's filament is excellent as well.

Helix, one thing that's definitely off with that hotend, is the gap between PEEK insulator and Alumin um heater block - it should be 2.5-3mm, not the <1mm shown in your picture. http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-hotend-assembly has instructions for that - was that the one you replaced, or did you ass...

It sounds like the Fan1 MOSFET has been damaged from that short - if it doesn't respond to M108, it means that it's not being controlled by the Atmega µC at all. You may need to modify the firmware to use the Heat1 output for the 40mm fans. If you send a picture of your RAMBo, I may be able to dete...

Last night I was troubleshooting my printer's cooling system, and accidentally shorted the fan leads and blew a fuse. I moved the second fuse into the first fuse's slot, but that didn't fix the problem. (at the time, I was thinking that maybe the second fuse wasn't needed) After replacing the fuse (...

ahhh yes you have the v3b then. yes the 20 deg difference applies. im not sure exactly whats going on then but im tellin you it really looks like a heat issue and you are runnin too hot. unless the ptfe liner in your insulator is really hot and reaching its glass point then a piece of filament driv...

i would suspect you are using the v3 hot end. the v3 is round all the way down to the nozzle and has the rubber insulation over it. the v3b has an aluminum block above the brass nozzle. given your era of printer, unless you have upgraded to a new hot end at some point you would be using the v3. 230...