One thing that might have been happening is that when you had 2 shells the shells were touching, but the space between them was too small for any infill, i.e it has to be as large as the extrusion width. With one shell, the space was large enough for S3D to generate infill, and then the positional a...

It's hard to tell where a person like that is coming from. Obviously he's frustrated at not getting something he wanted, and doesn't know how to politely ask for help. Probably your judgment is correct that this is not going any place good. But you never know. I tend to be a softy and remember that ...

I see the "New Topic" button.

Welcome to the fun! I have a simple end script to deal with the problem of bed free-fall: M104 S0 ; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off bed G91 G1 Z1 G28 X0 G90 ; absolute mode G1 Z198 ; get lower before cutting power G4 S10 ; pause 10 seconds M84 ; disable motors This takes the bed down to within ...

Nice job. I like the medieval look of it. I don't think I've ever seen rope used in quite that way, but it goes well. Do you have any concern about hot wax dripping over the edge and burning the rope?

Just doing some numerology on what jim said earlier, if the E3D behaves like a v3b temperature-wise, then your 220 on the v3 would translate into 240 on the e3d. That's a little higher than 235, and would lean things in the direction of less warping/clogging anyway.

Rsilver's extruder housing gives an even tighter fit than the stock makergear extruder housing. The hot end should snap into place and be a bit difficult to remove, especially at first.

I think there was more than one version of it though. Which one are you using and what did you print it in?

Awesome. Nice to have you a few steps ahead of me clearing the way, so to speak. I gave up on salvaging that molex and am now eyeing the other extra one I have on the M2 case fan, which got replaced at the same time as the extruder fan. All in a desperate attempt to save ordering a couple 22 cent pa...

Tim, it looks like the spare parts that came with my M2 are just enough to get the job done on the E3D, provided I reuse the hardware from the filament drive. There's two extra molex connectors for the thermister and the hot end heater, and wire inserts for each. I have an extra molex for the fan be...

Ah, my bad. You're right, sanding the surface smooth makes the fit work great. It may also have been worse in my case because I was at 240 degrees for ABS. It prints fine but I can see it's not flowing as smoothly as I'm used to with PLA, so it might have made the layer marks more pronounced. Anyway...