I think the problem may not be the switch itself but the clamp that holds it to he rod getting knocked upwards. I've been meaning to print myself a new clamp that butts up against the top plate so that it can never get knocked upwards. On mine, the LED butts up against the nut right above it and I had to put a piece of tape over the leads to keep it from shorting out on the nut.uslimey wrote:It struck me that homing the Z axis (the bed) is the most critical homing operation... I have has some inconsistency so I wanted to replace the switch with a opto... What I need to know however, is how to change the firmware to allow it to recognize a Normally Closed contact as oppose to the Normally Open one... Can this be done with G-Code or do I have to update firmware?... If I have to update firmware, where do I get it, what compiler do I need, and what should I set the optional settings to?
Any help would be appreciated.
On the issue of wiring your optical switch, you should be able to make it appear both normally closed or normally open using pull up or pull down resistors, unless the electronics on the other side already have said resistors on that end. That's why I like floating inputs-- it allows more flexibility.