Tim wrote: The 3M 468, by contrast, is rated only to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, so I can't imagine why people are using it for something that is normally heated to a temperature well above that.
Snort! Probably because I neglected to read that part...... 
I've used Plibond #35 to adhere my silicone heater to aluminum heat spreader on my giant delta, and then also to adhere cork insulation to the back of the silicone heater (creating a sandwich). It takes a good 2 weeks to fully set and it stays somewhat rubbery after. I would not use it for PEI application. 468 tape is very effective for adhering PEI to boro, never tried it with aluminum directly. The issue with Plibond is it is hard to apply the cement in an even streak free fashion, #25 would be even harder, then you get imperfections under the PEI, which you don't want as PEI is thin, and the adhesive needs to be flat and bubble free.Tim wrote: I have been following this discussion but I am still not certain what is the final (if any) conclusion about gluing the PEI to the MIC-6. The Pliobond contact cement #25 sounds like the best choice. The 3M 468, by contrast, is rated only to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, so I can't imagine why people are using it for something that is normally heated to a temperature well above that.
I found the rating, or at least a similar rating, in several places, but it's not clear whether it is meaningful. For all I know, it's referring to the transfer tape itself, with the paper backing on it, and not the adhesive. The 3M data sheet is more thorough, more detailed, and comes directly from 3M, so it is clearly the most trustworthy source.kazolar wrote:Not sure where you found the rating: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1040 ... -200mp.pdf says these tapes are rated up to 400F, and can withstand hours at 130C+ Note the rating is for highest bond level, so bonding may soften at 100C, but not enough to pull up to have issues with ABS warping etc.
That's intriguing. The compliance of the adhesive sheet under the Ultem/PEI is something I've been looking to overcome. Once concern is if I bond it, how to remove it in the future to replace. A thin sheet like this could be cleaned off with solvent without too much trouble. A light sanding or sand blast on the metal surface would probably be good for the bond too.mv3dnerd wrote:Been following this thread for a while. Using the PEI from zoro.com and 3m 468MP tape with MIC 6 al. It works ok but I am in the process of getting the plate milled with the PEI stuck on it. I have a friend who works at a machine shop to help me with this. My question is has anyone tried this http://imgur.com/a/9L7L0. It looks simple enough and may be similar to the PEI coated aluminum in Europehttp://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,596751, which I would like to try. The issues we trying to fix here is making a surface that the filament bonds to but is also flat meaning really flat.
https://www.zoro.com/ultem-sheet-stck-1 ... /G1023897/
~MV
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