Testers Needed

[sthone]

sthone - what does the firmware echo back when you connect to the printer now? And what does it echo back if you send "M119", with no endstops activated, vs. pressing the Z Max endstop by hand?

Not sure if this is what your talking about but in S3D I got this

Attempting connection at \\.\COM3...
RECEIVED: start
Connected to machine!
RECEIVED: echo:Marlin1.0.2
Marlin1.0.2
SENT: T0
RECEIVED: echo: Last Updated: Dec 19 2015 16:00:11 | Author: (MG|Josh, M2 General - AWBG3 v001 11/30/2015)
Last Updated: Dec 19 2015 16:00:11 | Author: (MG|Josh, M2 General - AWBG3 v001 11/30/2015)
RECEIVED: Compiled: Dec 19 2015
RECEIVED: echo: Free Memory: 4005 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
Free Memory: 4005 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
RECEIVED: echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
RECEIVED: echo:Steps per unit:
Steps per unit:
RECEIVED: echo: M92 X88.88 Y88.88 Z400.00 E471.50
M92 X88.88 Y88.88 Z400.00 E471.50
RECEIVED: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
RECEIVED: echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z25.00 E25.00
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z25.00 E25.00
RECEIVED: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
RECEIVED: echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
RECEIVED: echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
RECEIVED: echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
RECEIVED: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
RECEIVED: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
RECEIVED: echo:Home offset (mm):
Home offset (mm):
RECEIVED: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
RECEIVED: echo:PID settings:
PID settings:
RECEIVED: echo: M301 P25.89 I1.94 D86.53
M301 P25.89 I1.94 D86.53
RECEIVED: echo:SD card ok
RECEIVED: echo:Active Extruder: 0
Active Extruder: 0
RECEIVED: ok


End stop NOT pressed -
SENT: M119
RECEIVED: Reporting endstop status
RECEIVED: x_min: open
RECEIVED: y_min: open
RECEIVED: z_min: open
RECEIVED: z_max: open
RECEIVED: ok

End Stop pressed -
SENT: M119
RECEIVED: Reporting endstop status
RECEIVED: x_min: open
RECEIVED: y_min: open
RECEIVED: z_min: open
RECEIVED: z_max: open
RECEIVED: ok

Nothing showing triggered

Does this look right for the connection???

-Steve

[sthone]

Ok... I think I found the problem.

So I plugged one of the other end stops into the z-stop port and ran M119 and it triggered. I tested the switch itself yesterday but upon further inspection it turns out the plug on the wiring harness for the new end stop is screwy. I'm going to see if I can pop out the pin and re solder the wire to fix it, if not I think I have some servo ends that might be the same that I can splice in. It's going to have to wait till the morning though it's all ready 1am.

Josh Thank You for the info about the M119 command though that was a big help in diagnosing the problem. You guys are spot on with your support and on the weekend to boot.

-Steve

[sthone]

I fixed the plug and got everything fired up finally...

I thought the quick start guide worked great and it was pretty easy to follow. Leveling the new spider with the four adjustments and the nozzle in the corners is a lot easier than the old way that I did it with the three adjustment spider plate. I like the fact that the springs are gone too because the platform should no longer be able to compress when sticking a feeler gauge under the nozzle throwing off your setting. I have to change my rail block still so mines still too wobbly to tell how much different the solid spider will make. Another great design feature I like is the actual leveling screws. It looks like there is a tension screw through the side of the platform that keeps the leveling screw from turning too easily. This does make them harder to adjust (than before) but it should keep the bed level and not go out of adjustment with vibration over time.

I was a little concerned with the new z-stop being at the bottom but setting the z-stop height through the program turns out to be much easier and faster than the old z-stop bolt. (I still have my concerns about being able to drive the platform into the nozzle by accident if manually jogging with buttons although I haven't tried it to see what the out come would be.)

My other concerns I mentioned before about using the bed leveling wizard in S3D (if you wanted to) turned out to be nothing to worry about. If you turn the left front bed clip just a bit toward the outside corner the nozzle clears it fine. With the stock offset from the edge of 10mm the adjustment screws can be a little hard to get at but still are usable. (you could always increase this)

Like the other guys have said... the rubber corners in their present configuration are a little iffy. My bed and glass fit a little tight so when I was trying to level I had to push down on the bed if I loosened the leveling screw to get the bed to drop with it. The other problem I had (which probably wouldn't be a problem with a factory leveled bed) was my bed was so far off (1/8" lower in several corners) if I tried to raise it with the leveling screw without first loosing the bed clips they might have cracked from to much pressure. As it was I had to go back and re-tension them all after I finished leveling the bed. (you might want to point that out in the instructions) My initial thought to solve this problem was maybe use thru-hole through the spider with the screw coming up from the bottom that has a spring on it would then screw into the bed clip itself. The spring/bolt would then put a constant down pressure on the clips,glass, and bed and keep it in contact with the level screw while still allowing it to be turned to remove the glass. (don't know if it would work but after the problem with the tight corner during leveling it's something I might look into trying. Although I think now that I have everything level and running the problems I had with the corners are not really a big deal because any further adjustments that might be needed will not be that drastic.

Overall I think this new system is a big improvement over the old leveling system and it should make things easier for people who are just starting out. (as well as the rest of us.)

-Steve

[Josh]

insta - what exact buttons don't move/don't move correctly? Does the printer really not respond to _any_ of the movement buttons? If so, could you send me a copy of the firmware you customized for it? Also, make sure your setup homes correctly: if you don't change the "Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM" value in configuration_adv.h, and/or the endstop isn't installed quite right, it's possible for the firmware to "home" Z, without actually leaving the Z endstop, which will throw off the positioning; the adjustment of the retract value, and making sure the endstop activates only during the last bit of travel, both work to prevent that from being an issue though.

sthone - thanks for the follow-up on the endstop cable; we made those custom to send out with these kits, and did ring them out, but apparently that one was intermittent - sorry for not catching it. You are correct on the leveling clamps though - a normal bed leveling run, with factory-leveled bed, should require minimal or no adjustment, so the clamp pressure won't need to be adjusted either. I'm glad you like the new endstop setting process X)

sshwarts - I understand the concern there, but I haven't had any trouble yet, and I've been using bottom Z endstops of various configurations (both this current holder, and the previous design that triggered off the rear edge of the Z stage) for quite awhile with no trouble. (actual timing would be weeks to months before Rick posted the auto-level thread, which was in March...that is longer than I would have guessed...) If your rubber spacers have enough give, so the Z stage can compress them to home, but it is normally fully supported/off the endstop, it might be an improvement overall - are those just rubber o-rings?

[Spotopolis]

I have some observations and a question about S3D. Overall the upgrade was painless and the bed is SO MUCH easier to level. It takes all the mental gymnastics out of it.

The hardware installation went smooth and the instructions were very clear. The only trouble I had was when attaching the spider to the belt clamp, it pushed a couple of the nuts out of their hole and I had to take it back apart to put them back in. I ended up taping the bottom of the belt clamp to hold the nuts in until I could tighten the screws. Not a big deal at all, but it might be worth a mention. Also, I have a 12v / 19v machine and the heated bed didn't need to be trimmed at all - it starts well away from the edges.

There are some interface issues with the Mac version of the Quick Start App. On my machine running 10.9.5 with a 1920x1080 resolution, I get jumbled and overlapping text as shown in the screen shots attached. I was able to figure out what was meant, but it's pretty hard to read. Just for sake of experimentation, I also tested it on my laptop running 10.8.5 with Retina display set to look like 1680x1050 and it does the same thing on the same pages.

And the question is: while I set the Starting Height in Quick Start and it works perfectly, does that write the value to firmware? My concern is what will happen if I home using S3D - will it know where to stop or just keep going and crash into the extruder? If it doesn't change the firmware, how to I get S3D setup correctly now that the top switch is gone?

Here are the affected pages in Quick Start:

[jimc]

Yes even on the mac app i get the jumbled text as well. Nowhere near as bad as windows 10 with a 4k but it is there just like your pics

[Spotopolis]

I should clarify it's jumbled and also cut off in some instances.

[insta]

insta - what exact buttons don't move/don't move correctly? Does the printer really not respond to _any_ of the movement buttons? If so, could you send me a copy of the firmware you customized for it? Also, make sure your setup homes correctly: if you don't change the "Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM" value in configuration_adv.h, and/or the endstop isn't installed quite right, it's possible for the firmware to "home" Z, without actually leaving the Z endstop, which will throw off the positioning; the adjustment of the retract value, and making sure the endstop activates only during the last bit of travel, both work to prevent that from being an issue though.

None of the movement buttons work, even X/Y -- but it does work just fine in S3D. I didn't change Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM from the firmware specified in the instructions, but I will share the firmware I used via Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... sp=sharing .

I've actually been able to print with the new setup, it prints fine

[jimc]

ok i have finally got a chance to sit down and actually use the app. other than the words being jumbled on both platforms everything works pretty good. the mac app i can make out most of the words or atleast enough to get through the important stuff. windows app you cant make heads of tails of anything. as for the leveling and starting height adjustment, seems simple for a beginner to understand rather than them trying to wrap their head around a 3-point adjustment. one big thing i did find with the app as far as being quirky in the workflow and it actually brought me to a dead stop was in the starting height adjustment. for me when i clicked the "position platform and extruder" button to begin the sequence, my nozzle actually slightly collided with my bed and it dropped a little. ok no big deal so i used the buttons to lower it about 10mm then click "set height" and goto the next page and click the "check height" button. all is working at this point. the bed is now about 5mm lower than the nozzle as expected. here is where you get stuck.....you click the back button and all you can do is start over. it rezeros everything and makes the nozzle collide with the bed again instead of starting where i left off. i should be able to go back, make adjustments from where i left off so i can fine tune it but unfortunately the "starting height set" button is greyed out. this makes it impossible to set the bed gap.

[Josh]

insta - during that testing, did the app actually properly connect to your printer? Did you hear the fans cycle/see connection LEDs flash when it tried to connect? It's using standard gcode for all actions - the movements are literally the same that Pronterface and S3D use (go relative, move whatever, go absolute - "G91" "G1 An" [Axis,n mm] "G90"), so either your copy isn't working at all, or the communication between the app and the printer isn't actually working...

Also, that firmware does have the Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM value changed already.

jimc - do you have a custom hotend or any other different parts on that machine? The position command in that step is supposed to leave plenty of clearance (it moves to what the printer thinks is 30mm from nozzle, with no offsets set), so I'm really confused why the nozzle is colliding with the bed. Also - what firmware are you using?

I am working on a specific starting height adjustment step, where you can start with your current value and tweak it slightly; the process is more involved from a code standpoint, and it requires different instructions, so it'll be a separate part, not in the main initial setup workflow.

Spotopolis - yes, it writes it to firmware. What you're actually doing when you set the starting height, is setting the offset from the Z Max home position; with no offset, the firmware calls Z Max home 200mm. We then move the bed up until it's the correct distance from the nozzle, check the position, take that value, invert it and set it as the Z home position offset. So say you end up at -6mm (the correct starting height is 6mm closer to nozzle than "0", so 206mm from Z Max home position), we invert that and set the Z offset to 6 - then when Z homes to Max, the firmware calls that 200+6mm, so knows that, to move to Z0, it needs to move the bed up 206mm. The "Set Starting Height" button sends "M206 Z[offset]" and "M500" to write that to EEPROM, so the firmware will use that value when it boots from then on.