E3D V6

[Bratag]

The thermistor doesn't die at 300C, it just gets inaccurate above that. I'd guess max temperature is closer to 400C before its irreparably damaged, based on absolutely nothing.

Didn't have mine die but did note that the hotend does not want to stick at 285 , could be related I guess to the initial 5 degree overshoot (no amount of auto tuning seems to be able to rid me of it). It gets up to 290 then essentially switches off. Its strange as its completely rock solid at 245 -260.

Either way I am loving the hotend. Next to no ooze and I was even able to bump up my speeds a little.

Ooooh you have your max temp set to 290 in the firmware, then? Does it say 'ERR: MAXTEMP' and die?

That is entirely possible . Truthfully I was pretty burnt out at that stage so it could have said "Lookout flying monkies" and I might not have noticed. I will double check the setting in my Config tonight and adjust accordingly.

I ran my autotune for 245 which is what I print PET at (my main filament) would you recommend running another one at say 275? in order to get a more stable high temp?

[jimc]

just run the autotune for the temp you usually run at. if you only overshoot 5 deg on the initial heat up then thats not bad and pretty normal. 20-30deg then you have an issue. it should hold a steady temp though. within a deg or two.

[Lateralg]

Following is last part of the E3D instructions posted here:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

PID Tuning
Connect to the printer
Run M303 to autotune your PID - check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually.
Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.

Following is from the complete E3D instructions posted here:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

Doing the final tightening of the nozzle. When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner. The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together.

You are now ready to mount the HotEnd to your printer. Happy Printing!



Did anyone encounter problems doing this?

[jimc]

No problems. If you havent watched toms video then do so. Its pretty good and informative. I subscribed to him a long time ago. Good stuff. I Didnt however run the pid at 285. I ran it at my normal highest operating temp.

[Lateralg]

Jim,

Thanks again. I think I'll stay around 235-240 for my PID autotone.

I've watched Tom's videos and agree on their goodness.

I assume that you didn't do a high-temperature final torque on the nozzle. Correct?


Here's a question for other viewers of this topic: Did you depart from recommended procedure? For either answer, what was your outcome?

[jimc]

Gary, i change nozzles on a daily basis. I switch between a .4 and .6 all the time. I heat it up, put a small wrench on it when hot and its a done deal.

[PcS]

Gary, i change nozzles on a daily basis. I switch between a .4 and .6 all the time. I heat it up, put a small wrench on it when hot and its a done deal.

Not to hijack the thread, but ! What's the reason behind swapping those sizes of nozzles ? I just use my .35 for everything .Is it just purely speed ? Or do some parts designs warrant it ?

[Lateralg]

Gary, i change nozzles on a daily basis. I switch between a .4 and .6 all the time. I heat it up, put a small wrench on it when hot and its a done deal.

Perfect! That's what I was hoping to hear.

BTW: With more than a 2:1 nozzle flow area increase going from .4 to .6, are any settings changes required ?

[jimc]

it does affect some of the settings besides just the nozzle size. your ooze control changes a bit mostly.

pat, speed mostly. certain parts i do dont require the thin layer heights so i run the .6 in it. .4 is the standard nozzle size and i used to do most of my printing with that but recently after getting a .6 i realized there was a big speed jump there without too much sacrifice in surface finish. the parts i do still look good at a .3 layer height so if i can run a .6 nozzle then i will.

[Lateralg]

If you're using S3D, do you manually set nozzle size?