MakerGear Forum

So what do I gain with the new spider. I have been unable to figure it out?

I could easily convert so I homed at the bottom with what I have. (Could be wrong I am guessing)

The new spider is solid mounted and has 4 point corner leveling screws so it easier to level for beginners.

You should be able to convert to Rev E by moving your end stop to the bottom and reflashing your firmware but it would be harder to use the leveling software to level using the three point slider. With the Rev E firmware you can't home to the top anymore either using S3D or octoprint so leveling with a feeler gauge might be harder too. I use a dial indicator to level my beds now so I don't use any software so it can still be done though.

jimc wrote:you cant remove the springs. if you remove them then what is going to push the bed upward so that it can be adjusted?

.

If you have a drill press and a tap you probably could convert the original bed to a four point system pretty easy I bet then you wouldn't need the springs at all.

Hell... I have an extra spider I might just have to give this a go

sthone wrote:The new spider is solid mounted and has 4 point corner leveling screws so it easier to level for beginners.

You should be able to convert to Rev E by moving your end stop to the bottom and reflashing your firmware but it would be harder to use the leveling software to level using the three point slider. With the Rev E firmware you can't home to the top anymore either using S3D or octoprint so leveling with a feeler gauge might be harder too. I use a dial indicator to level my beds now so I don't use any software so it can still be done though.

I home upwards (inductive sensor) and use the 4-point Rev E spider. I just like how flat it stays with MIC-6.

'Yeah. The only real benefit I can see in homeing at the bottom is it would be easier to try and restart an aborted print.

Does the Rev E spider just bolt directly to the carriage?

MikeA wrote:Does the Rev E spider just bolt directly to the carriage?

Yes.

Deereengineer wrote:I'm ok with keeping the springs , but I want to stiffen things up enough so that a dial indicator will read correctly without moving the build plate .

Tighten your springs as much as possible. then level the bed with the least amount of movement. this will keep the springs tighter and will also keep the screws set better.

Is moving the endstop to the underside of the bed all that is required to be able to use REV E Firmware? I've tried this and am having some problems. When homing the bed comes down and touches the switch, the light comes on but the motor keeps trying to go down. Is anything else required?

Edit
I have it working now. It appears you have to also unplug the Z stop from the Zmin connector on the board and plug it into the ZMax connector on the Rambo Board. A 180 deg twist is also necessary to keep the pins correct.

I've looked online for a picture of the Rev E bed but have not been able to find any that show good detail. Would someone mind making a couple and posting? A closeup of the leveling screws/bed holddown would be nice also.
Thanks,
Mike