MakerGear Forum

I don't print ABS so I cannot give a firm answer here, but I don't think you'll need it with PEI. The key is to keep it clean of oils; use isopropyl alcohol before each print. If you still have adhesion issues, I've heard you can scuff up the surface with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to restore the adhesion.

I use acetone on a cooler plate and have seen no signs of crazing or other deterioration. I had looked up the compatibility info before using acetone on it. I have also used a very light film of ABS juice on PEI for ABS but have moved away from that since moving the printer into a heated enclosure.

hanktt wrote:Thanks atomic_peach for the answers. Glad I asked about acetone compatibility. So, it sounds like ABS juice is no, no for PEI then.

Make sure you peel the film from the underside of the aluminum too!

I received mine late last week and just now had time to fiddle with it. The plate is about 3/32 short on the 8" side and the pei sheet is perfectly square on one side but about 1/16 end to end out on the other side, leaving 1/16 of the aluminum plate exposed.

I am not sure if this is normal or not.

With it being smaller does that mean I need to print those clips I saw linked up thread? I didnt readily see how that auto adjust, but maybe I am just being thick tonight.

I was also wondering, with all this thermal mass, do I need to set the bed temp well in advance, let the actual plate come up to temp to match the mg plate? Do I need to set it a bit higher to achieve actual temp on the new plate?

What the hell? Do you have a picture? It almost sounds like the adhesive shifted.

Normal is a sheet of aluminum with a perfectly capped piece of PEI on it. they should fit the Rev D holder just as well as the E, but I've noticed the D rubber pads are more variable in position. The plates can tend to run a tiny bit skinny due to the saw kerf.

Also, the temperature is the same, and the heating isn't appreciably longer (maybe 10-20%). The top of the plate will run cooler, but the PEI sticks harder than anything you've used before, so it balances out.

Its not an issue with me, as I dont really think I am ever going to print to 1/16 from the edge...

I have a rev e so a little concerned I need to figure out how to secure it. It moves around quite a bit with any pressure.

I can try printing the clamps you linked upthread and see how they work.

With my plate I just use Jim's Corners but I use the normal Makergear Clips (with longer button head screw on the clips) rather than Jim's litte inserts on The Rev E because I need the downward pressure to keep my plate flat against the HBP.

I have an alternate clip design posted here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4423
My latest set was printed from ePC (solid, no infill) and is holding up quite nicely printing in a heated enclosure.

I got the plate installed, and just using the stock clips so far. Just backed the screw out enough to get the clip over the plate, then tightened a bit. Looks a bit odd, but seems to work fine. Z I will print your clips in the am and see how they work.

The new plate STICKS. I have been really frustrated with the printer as I was having issue after issue getting my first layer to stick.

Maybe its the plate (probably), maybe I set the gap better (I used a sheet of printer paper and set it at just some friction) or maybe its a new day, but anyway you slice it, the prints now stick.

I am a happy camper

Next batch going out tomorrow, get any last orders in