The M2 24V upgrade

[Dale Reed]

bobginpgh,

You will at a minimum need to run the PID autotune sequences for the extruder temperature control and the bed temperature control. The tuning is done using G-code commands entered interactively --- in S3D, there's a command line for sending commands in the Machine Control Panel, for example. The basic instructions are at http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning -- if you have any troubles, jump back in here. Several of us have experience with this and can answer any questions you have.

MakerGear also has a firmware update to apply. Worked fine on my M2, which I received in April 2013, so it's likely the same "vintage" of RAMBo, etc., that yours is. Instructions for the firmware update are included with the 24V upgrade kit. Again, several of us here have done this, so ask back if you need help. You'll need to get the Arduino software to build the firmware and load it into your machine. Arduino software is available for Windows, Mac and Linux (I use Linux Mint for my build machine, and have Win 7 64-bit available on a separate partition just in case, but I have not had problems doing firmware updates from Mint.)

The 24V upgrade is good to have for another reason: the 24V heater develops heat faster while sucking less current from the supply, and the heater pad covers the entire aluminum plate of the bed, not leaving the back half inch unheated -- handy if you're making full-bed-sized parts. The 12V bed pushed the limits of current handling for the various connectors, so lower current is a good thing for several reasons. Also nice not to have to deal with two bricks.

So I suggest you go for the 24V upgrade -- and post back at this topic if you need some help.
Dale

[Tim]

Ditto what Dale said, by 2013 the M2 was using the RAMBo with the automotive fuse in the back corner, and the 16-microstep motor drivers, which means your upgrade should be considerably simpler than mine.

Just keep in mind that the difference with the upgrade is that each of those big green terminal connectors on the RAMBo now has 24V across the terminals. Those are the heaters and fans. The new extruder heater is 24V, the new bed heater is 24V, so those are taken care of. The new bed fan (the one that is mounted at an angle) is 24V, so it has its own connection to one terminal block. The remaining two fans are the original ones and are 12V. Since both those fans (extruder cooling and electronics box cooling) are always on, they just get wired in series to the other terminal block labeled "fan". As long as it adds up to 24V for each terminal block, you're good.

Don't expect bed heating to be much faster. 2x the voltage at 1/2 the current means that the same power is being applied.

[insta]

Since I franken-upgraded my M2 to 24v (before the official upgrade was available), I had a seller on eBay make me a custom silicone mat heater. It was 6x8", 24V, 185W (8.5A). Sucker heats up quick, and it doesn't hit the spider corners. It cost me $35 shipped.

[bobginpgh]

I figured I'd need to do the PID tuning. MakerGear didn't enclose any instructions (I assume in error), and I didn't see anything on the wiki specific to installing the upgrade, but now see there are links to 24V firmware. I emailed support, and expect to hear from them shortly. I have a little work to do replacing the onboard connector which melted enough that I can't remove the plug, so no no hurry. Plenty of gifts still to wrap, too.

[Mount PrintMore]

I'm working through the 24 Volt Upgrade now. I'm going to the V4 hotend at the same time.
My machine has the newer rambo board with the automotive style fuse.

I sprung for the new metal electronics enclosure too, as I never like the SD card reader retention in the laser cut plastic version.

I checked the resistance across the hot end heater and got 17 Ohms, which led me to install the firmware:M2Marlin24r2 from the wikidot page.

This literature mentions that version 1.5.5 is known good and that 1.6.x has had issues. I flashed the controller with 1.6.4 with no issue (it was the version I already had).

Reworking the wire harnesses was a bit of a mess, and my final installation looks like a kludge. I'm not happy with it, but it's good enough to run. Does anyone out there have pictures of a good wiring rework that they could share pictures of? The primary problem I have is that there is a huge wad of wired that is folded over on itself just behind the electronics enclosure. I makes getting the power connector attached difficult and looks ugly. I ended up having to scavenge a few pieces of guarding from my old extruder harness to recover the wires that go to the Y axis. That whole leg is ugly. Looking for ideas here.

The corrugated plastic shielding on the HBP wire harness is stiff enough and looped tightly enough that when the Y axis is near home it tries to life the HBP off the tray. Has anyone else noticed that or come up with a simple fix?

The 3D printed parts that were supplied with the upgrade kit feel like they were printed with 10% infill or something really low. I'm nervous about them holding up, and should probably print a spare set immediately.

Has the dust settled on what the temperature limits are for the V4? Does anyone have a specific combination of PET or other high temp filament they are using with the V4 they could share with me?

[Jules]

......Has the dust settled on what the temperature limits are for the V4? Does anyone have a specific combination of PET or other high temp filament they are using with the V4 they could share with me?

Got a whole write up on PETG in the Filaments section:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593

[jsc]

Check out the recent thread on cable chains, you might be interested in that: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2739, also viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2770

The warning about 1.5 vs 1.6 is due to a workaround for skipped steps during high travel speeds which is exacerbated by some compiler changes in 1.6. If you don't see missed steps, don't worry. If you do, then try 1.5. There's also a code workaround that you can put in yourself if you want to try that. But see if it bites you first.