esun petg
Re: esun petg
Already sold out. (Ya snooze, ya lose!)
Re: esun petg
haha wow ok. that was quick
Re: esun petg
OK, I'm jumping in the pool here..
Threw my wallet at the printer, 24v, V4 and 1/4" plate platform..I have to say, I'm really happy with these improvements. I also decided while I was at it to try out PET-G, after I found people's frustrations with ABS to be completely founded, if not understated. I spent a great deal of time over 3 days tuning and dialing it in; it was shaping up to be frustrating after my first few tries wouldn't stick, or clogged..but like everyone says, once that first layer is perfect, it's a nice filament to work with. I started with Jules' settings, added the reduced acceleration code, and tweaked from there. Other than a couple dozen calibration blocks and bits, these are my first printed objects. The center was the first go with a layer height of .20, and the left is .12 and right .24 with the same settings as the .20, no other changes. All were printed on rafts, which I feel do a nice job of making it easy to remove stuff from the platform, and are super easy to work with once dialed in (I completely neglected to take a picture of the bottoms, but they are pretty nice).
My main deviations from Jules' settings are probably cutting my retraction down to .12mm; I seemed to be getting aeration almost in the filament in the retraction-heavy zones. .35 nozzle, 245C, .40 layer width, 95% first layer height, 100% width, 70% first layer speed. I do get some globbing a bit now at start/stop points, but nothing horrible. I am running BuildTak on 1/4" plate (run of the mill, sheared to size 6061), thermistor simply epoxied to the rear edge of the plate..heat gun shows the surface runs about 4-6 degrees hotter than the sensor, and it seems to be consistent to about 3 degrees across the platform. I run 80C in the G-gode, I show around 85-86C with a heat gun on the platform. Other than that, it all seems to be in getting that first layer dialed in. All in all for this model, with these settings, the .20 seems like a good resolution. There's not quite enough stability in the thin vanes (each vane = .80mm or so, 2 passes) for the thicker layers, and I question of the thin walled, high overhang (some areas over 50 degrees) areas aren't a good match for the current settings at least. Small parts come off fine, larger parts may be worth the time to do the raft as the grid is much easier to pop off than a solid base. I do find it helps a lot to wait until the platform is completely back to ambient before trying to get parts off. It takes a while with the mass of the platform, but if you've got a small fan you can blow directly across it, it's not horrible. I start under the edge with a flat razor, work around the perimeter, and then slip a putty knife in from there.
Model source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39755
.12 Print:
.20 Print:
.24 Print:
More of .20 print:
One of the rafts. I run it with the base layers, 4mm offset since the ends of the raft infill tend to string and the extra diameter lets that settle down before it's in the print area. I also added a 4th layer, as running a slightly sparse infill makes it string over the base layers..sort of like the extra diameter this is worthwhile as it really cleans up the print surface and makes everything pop apart in two parts. I run .20 separation, 99% infill.
This is all of the stringing/globbing I trimmed off the first one I printed; not bad at all. I found with this model at least, using the "Start Point at a Specific Location" under Layer/Start Points in S3D seemed to help; I just used the default location and it seemed to eliminated a lot of the crossing that I otherwise saw in the print preview. I think this is probably a big help for reducing stringing.
Threw my wallet at the printer, 24v, V4 and 1/4" plate platform..I have to say, I'm really happy with these improvements. I also decided while I was at it to try out PET-G, after I found people's frustrations with ABS to be completely founded, if not understated. I spent a great deal of time over 3 days tuning and dialing it in; it was shaping up to be frustrating after my first few tries wouldn't stick, or clogged..but like everyone says, once that first layer is perfect, it's a nice filament to work with. I started with Jules' settings, added the reduced acceleration code, and tweaked from there. Other than a couple dozen calibration blocks and bits, these are my first printed objects. The center was the first go with a layer height of .20, and the left is .12 and right .24 with the same settings as the .20, no other changes. All were printed on rafts, which I feel do a nice job of making it easy to remove stuff from the platform, and are super easy to work with once dialed in (I completely neglected to take a picture of the bottoms, but they are pretty nice).
My main deviations from Jules' settings are probably cutting my retraction down to .12mm; I seemed to be getting aeration almost in the filament in the retraction-heavy zones. .35 nozzle, 245C, .40 layer width, 95% first layer height, 100% width, 70% first layer speed. I do get some globbing a bit now at start/stop points, but nothing horrible. I am running BuildTak on 1/4" plate (run of the mill, sheared to size 6061), thermistor simply epoxied to the rear edge of the plate..heat gun shows the surface runs about 4-6 degrees hotter than the sensor, and it seems to be consistent to about 3 degrees across the platform. I run 80C in the G-gode, I show around 85-86C with a heat gun on the platform. Other than that, it all seems to be in getting that first layer dialed in. All in all for this model, with these settings, the .20 seems like a good resolution. There's not quite enough stability in the thin vanes (each vane = .80mm or so, 2 passes) for the thicker layers, and I question of the thin walled, high overhang (some areas over 50 degrees) areas aren't a good match for the current settings at least. Small parts come off fine, larger parts may be worth the time to do the raft as the grid is much easier to pop off than a solid base. I do find it helps a lot to wait until the platform is completely back to ambient before trying to get parts off. It takes a while with the mass of the platform, but if you've got a small fan you can blow directly across it, it's not horrible. I start under the edge with a flat razor, work around the perimeter, and then slip a putty knife in from there.
Model source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39755
.12 Print:
.20 Print:
.24 Print:
More of .20 print:
One of the rafts. I run it with the base layers, 4mm offset since the ends of the raft infill tend to string and the extra diameter lets that settle down before it's in the print area. I also added a 4th layer, as running a slightly sparse infill makes it string over the base layers..sort of like the extra diameter this is worthwhile as it really cleans up the print surface and makes everything pop apart in two parts. I run .20 separation, 99% infill.
This is all of the stringing/globbing I trimmed off the first one I printed; not bad at all. I found with this model at least, using the "Start Point at a Specific Location" under Layer/Start Points in S3D seemed to help; I just used the default location and it seemed to eliminated a lot of the crossing that I otherwise saw in the print preview. I think this is probably a big help for reducing stringing.
2012 M2 V4-PTFE
Re: esun petg
Spectacular job, Rara! There's no stringing on that at all - you have it dialed in perfectly. (I generally don't see a lot of strings either.) Great raft work too!
(Just remember to save your profile. I sometimes forget.)
(Just remember to save your profile. I sometimes forget.)
Re: esun petg
Thanks Jules, I definitely owe you a thanks for posting your profile for me to start with! But yes, after years of tweaking and adjusting and forgetting what I did I have finally gotten myself to the point where I save and name things, probably a good 50-60% of the time now! The little (modified) indicator in S3D has helped out with this more than I could've imagined if I am being honest.
So, being proud of that and curious how it would go, I loaded up a similar but different part...one at 50% scale, another at whatever the maximum to get on the bed, 280% or so. This one has vanes that vary in thickness and take some infill; this means a lot of move operations unfortunately. The 50% version is largely a mess, and the big one has lots of globbing and embedded brown/black bits burnt off the hot end (this is unfortunate as I had hoped to backlight it somehow). It should be done tonight, will post pictures and preview screen grabs..I have a feeling I will be bumping up retraction again.
The little (modified) indicator in S3D has helped out with this more than I could've imagined if I am being honest.So, being proud of that and curious how it would go, I loaded up a similar but different part...one at 50% scale, another at whatever the maximum to get on the bed, 280% or so. This one has vanes that vary in thickness and take some infill; this means a lot of move operations unfortunately. The 50% version is largely a mess, and the big one has lots of globbing and embedded brown/black bits burnt off the hot end (this is unfortunate as I had hoped to backlight it somehow). It should be done tonight, will post pictures and preview screen grabs..I have a feeling I will be bumping up retraction again.
2012 M2 V4-PTFE
Re: esun petg
The brown spots are excess plastic collecting on your nozzle, cooking then finally falling into your print. It has less to do with retraction and more to do with ext multiplier. When the nozzle is hot give it a quick cleaning with a small wire brush. Turn the multiplier down 2 points and retry the print. Petg wil absolutely not handle ANY over extrusion. The excess will just get scraped away but the nozzle and cause problems.
Re: esun petg
Ugh! Much as i love PETG, it's just crap on bridging!
How doth one deal with the sag, pray tell? Anybody got a handy trick up their sleeve?
How doth one deal with the sag, pray tell? Anybody got a handy trick up their sleeve?
Re: esun petg
yes it does not bridge well.
Re: esun petg
It's that stickiness....perfectly shaped round holes, and awesome overhangs, but boy, does it make a mess whenever it needs to jump a gap horizontally!
Re: esun petg
OK, finished up the big guy! And the little guy.
First, the little guy. Meh, not great, not too bad. This is right off the raft. One of the vanes popped off at the base layer when I was working it off.
Here's the base of the large print, the natural filament is hard to see. I'm lowering the separation distance on the raft, I think it could be a bit tighter. This came off almost a little too easily, and the base layers aren't adhering as well as they could looking at the shaft opening (and to a lesser extent, the overall OD).
Wellp. Guess I had better get busy.
This is one vane that didn't have any crossing over, and was basically perfect off the bed.
After about an hour and a half of chiseling off little strings and nubs...
First, the little guy. Meh, not great, not too bad. This is right off the raft. One of the vanes popped off at the base layer when I was working it off.
Here's the base of the large print, the natural filament is hard to see. I'm lowering the separation distance on the raft, I think it could be a bit tighter. This came off almost a little too easily, and the base layers aren't adhering as well as they could looking at the shaft opening (and to a lesser extent, the overall OD).
Wellp. Guess I had better get busy.
This is one vane that didn't have any crossing over, and was basically perfect off the bed.
After about an hour and a half of chiseling off little strings and nubs...
2012 M2 V4-PTFE