Does anyone have experience printing with Taulman Bridge Filament?
Do these settings work:
Recommended Extrusion Temperature: 235ºC-245ºC
Recommended Bed Temperature: 70ºC-95ºC
Taulman Bridge Filament
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Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
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Taulman Bridge Filament
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
I've played with it a bit and there are certainly some things to know about it.
First is that right from the factory what I got was out of spec. It was almost 1.9mm in spots and I think it was oval shaped. This caused it to get stuck in the bowden tube and fail the prints. I also saw more steam out of the nozzle than I would have expected, but am surprised it would have picked up water while still sealed in the original package.
On the plus side Taulman was VERY responsive and sent a replacement right away and even threw in a sample of T-glas. However the replacement was just as out of spec as the original.
I ended up buying a replacement bowden tube which has a full 2mm inside diameter which seems to have solved the jamming problem though I assume the spec issue would affect print quality.
Bridge nylon certainly has solved the bed adhesion issue - so much so that my last print took some of the glass with it and I had to buy a replacement. Taulman suggests prepping the bed with glue, not to improve adhesion but to reduce it! I think he gave this advice for t-Glase as well.
I used a V3B temp of 245 and a bed temp of 110C because 60 came off the bed. The nylon runs out of the hotend quite a lot so I need to manually extrude just before kicking off the print or else even the priming extrusion built in isn't enough. I'm pulling away leaked extrusion from the nozzle with tweezers right up until the last second before printing starts.
Now the good part - the print ends up TOUGH! I printed one of my Festool style bench dogs (a cylinder 20mm in diameter and about 1.5 inches long, 80% infill), put it in a vice and hit it with a hammer. I was finally able to get it to split when hit along the layers, but you can hit it all day long compressing the layers and it's not going to shatter or even dent much.
I had printed the heart gears from Thingiverse out of PLA and found it very difficult to turn. So then I printed the connecting pins out of bridge nylon and now the gears turn really easily.
I later replaced my stock extruder drive body with rsilvers one and while it worked with ABS and PLA every print I tried with bridge nylon got stuck mid print. I ended up switching back to the stock extruder drive and things started working again. I've heard good things about rsilvers drive so it's possible I did something wrong.
I'm looking forward to doing more with bridge nylon, I just wish they fixed their extrusion spec issue.
First is that right from the factory what I got was out of spec. It was almost 1.9mm in spots and I think it was oval shaped. This caused it to get stuck in the bowden tube and fail the prints. I also saw more steam out of the nozzle than I would have expected, but am surprised it would have picked up water while still sealed in the original package.
On the plus side Taulman was VERY responsive and sent a replacement right away and even threw in a sample of T-glas. However the replacement was just as out of spec as the original.
I ended up buying a replacement bowden tube which has a full 2mm inside diameter which seems to have solved the jamming problem though I assume the spec issue would affect print quality.
Bridge nylon certainly has solved the bed adhesion issue - so much so that my last print took some of the glass with it and I had to buy a replacement. Taulman suggests prepping the bed with glue, not to improve adhesion but to reduce it! I think he gave this advice for t-Glase as well.
I used a V3B temp of 245 and a bed temp of 110C because 60 came off the bed. The nylon runs out of the hotend quite a lot so I need to manually extrude just before kicking off the print or else even the priming extrusion built in isn't enough. I'm pulling away leaked extrusion from the nozzle with tweezers right up until the last second before printing starts.
Now the good part - the print ends up TOUGH! I printed one of my Festool style bench dogs (a cylinder 20mm in diameter and about 1.5 inches long, 80% infill), put it in a vice and hit it with a hammer. I was finally able to get it to split when hit along the layers, but you can hit it all day long compressing the layers and it's not going to shatter or even dent much.
I had printed the heart gears from Thingiverse out of PLA and found it very difficult to turn. So then I printed the connecting pins out of bridge nylon and now the gears turn really easily.
I later replaced my stock extruder drive body with rsilvers one and while it worked with ABS and PLA every print I tried with bridge nylon got stuck mid print. I ended up switching back to the stock extruder drive and things started working again. I've heard good things about rsilvers drive so it's possible I did something wrong.
I'm looking forward to doing more with bridge nylon, I just wish they fixed their extrusion spec issue.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
My experience with Bridge is similar including the part with the rsilvers drive body. It doesn't work with bridge or flex so stick with the standard drive.
I used Elmer's washable glue stick on glass and it stuck very well and removal was easy. In fact I pretty much use that with everything now (Pla, abs, flex). The key is to print the first layer at 70 degrees the raise to temp for subsequent ones.
Scott
I used Elmer's washable glue stick on glass and it stuck very well and removal was easy. In fact I pretty much use that with everything now (Pla, abs, flex). The key is to print the first layer at 70 degrees the raise to temp for subsequent ones.
Scott
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
I'm really glad to hear I wasn't the only one who had problems with bridge nylon and the rsilvers drive, didn't know if I was nuts.
And for the record I also use Elmers disappearing purple washable glue stick - worked better for me than hairspray plus no fuss with overspray. I'm not always crazy about the gloss finish of printing on glass and the glue discolors the surface a little. For some projects I actually like the texture that printing on blue tape provides.
And for the record I also use Elmers disappearing purple washable glue stick - worked better for me than hairspray plus no fuss with overspray. I'm not always crazy about the gloss finish of printing on glass and the glue discolors the surface a little. For some projects I actually like the texture that printing on blue tape provides.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
Do you guys ever run a drill bit down your filament drives after you print them? Horizontally printed holes never qualify as precision. Silvers drive prob has a filament path thats a little tighter than stock and your seeing it when using taulmans nylon. Taulman filament of any kind has never been known to have consistent extrusion. Run a 2mm - 3/32" drill bit all the way through the drive. It will smooth the whole path out and make it true.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
I actually did run a 3/32" drill bit through the filament path, but it didn't fix the issue with bridge nylon - PLA, ABS, and T_glase worked fine.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
ok well thats good. im just thinking out loud here as to why one drive would be different than the other. the only other thing i can think of is the tension screw. with the factory drive you can have that tightened all the way without a problem but i know the silvers drive you can tighten the tension screw up enough where the bearing will squish and flatten the filament half flat and cause a feeding problem where its deformed and wont go into the lower hole. might not be an issue with pla and some abs because they are hard but nylon is softer. i dont go higher than 1/2 way. just a thought.
to get back on track with john's question, since i have not printed bridge as of yet i dont have much to offer but i have printed 618 and with that i found most nylons are very stringy so they need alot of retraction and coasting. i am attaching my old nylon profile for 618. i have no idea if this is good for bridge or not so please just use for reference but it may get you close. most of my processes are for the e3d hot end now so they are different but i havent printed with nylon in so long i think this one is still setup for the v3b on a 19v machine.
to get back on track with john's question, since i have not printed bridge as of yet i dont have much to offer but i have printed 618 and with that i found most nylons are very stringy so they need alot of retraction and coasting. i am attaching my old nylon profile for 618. i have no idea if this is good for bridge or not so please just use for reference but it may get you close. most of my processes are for the e3d hot end now so they are different but i havent printed with nylon in so long i think this one is still setup for the v3b on a 19v machine.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
I did try to experiment with the drive tension and went from quite loose to somewhat tight, couldn't get it to work. It kept getting stuck and I'd retract it and find a dug in spot on the side. I didn't know if I drilled out the filament path too loose and maybe that caused problems, or maybe that filament path causes a slight bend that doesn't exist with the stock one - just a guess. I'd happily try again sometime if there was more information though hopefully in about a week I'll be rocking a new dual extruder setup so this extruder drive design may be moot.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
ahhh i see, you just couldnt get it to align and feed into the lower hole.
Re: Taulman Bridge Filament
That's certainly a possibility. Maybe the softness of the nylon caused it to not find the hole when the other harder materials did.