Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

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atomholc
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Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by atomholc » Sun Apr 26, 2015 2:49 am

Hi Makers,

I have a few questions before getting started with Ninjaflex. I've read a few of the forums but I am slightly unsure ...

1) hot bed temperature
Is 50C on the glass ok?

2) Should I mount my spool on the top
Do most of you top mount your spool or is it ok on the side? I remember seeing a post a while ago that I cannot find about someone that 3d printed a longer arm for where it spools the filament, does that help? If so where can I find that stl file :D

3) Cleaning my extruder
I have an extra extruder .. should I just dedicate that for Ninjaflex or is it not that big of a deal to clean it before different filaments? I am just nervous about ending up with a messy extruder that constantly clogs on me. I ordered a eSUN filament to use for cleaning.

4) Simplify3D Settings
I am seeing conflicting recommendations on this .. for example.
The extruder temperature recommended by the ninjaflex website is: 210 - 225ºC - http://www.makergeeks.com/ninja-flex-pla.html
I am seeing some people on here recommend 250c?! :ugeek:
For the print speed I am seeing a recommendation of: 30 mm/s
When people on here are recommending 20mm/s (1150mm/min)

I am attaching some of the settings windows for my Simplify 3d if someone can point me in the right direction. What do I change and what to do I set what to what too.

Thanks!!!! :D :D :D

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Image

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insta
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by insta » Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:00 am

1) Hotter is better, but if it sticks it will stay stuck for the whole print. DO NOT USE KAPTON HOLY MOLY IT DOES NOT COME OFF.
2) I mount mine on the side. The tube falls over but nothing in the system cares.
3) It purges out fine, you can use the same hotend
4) Hotter is better, slower is better -- we need as little friction as possible for our skinny 1.75 filament or else it will buckle in the drive assembly.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org

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atomholc
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by atomholc » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:07 am

insta wrote:1) Hotter is better, but if it sticks it will stay stuck for the whole print. DO NOT USE KAPTON HOLY MOLY IT DOES NOT COME OFF.
2) I mount mine on the side. The tube falls over but nothing in the system cares.
3) It purges out fine, you can use the same hotend
4) Hotter is better, slower is better -- we need as little friction as possible for our skinny 1.75 filament or else it will buckle in the drive assembly.
So set me extruder to 250C and my speed to 1100mm/sec and let it go?

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jimc
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by jimc » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:31 am

i print a boat load of ninjaflex. insta is right. hotter is better. i run it at 255. you do not need to heat the bed at all. i do much better with the bed cold. you can print on cold glass as long as its very clean but i put just a single mist coat of hairspray on the glass and from that point i can just print and print without ever retreating it. slower is better too. print speeds you are seeing will vary from printer to printer and the hot end you are using. there has been a change in the ninjaflex recently. older stuff has a very fine and slight texture to the filament. this is fine and feeds great in the m2. the new stuff is smooth which is fine as well but you need to get a pure teflon feed tube. it will not slip through the clear stock makergear feed tube. you want the white and really slippery stuff. i know the stuff from printedsolid.com is good. if you have an extra hot end i would definitely try to dedicate that to ninjaflex. add some coasting. do not retract more than 1mm. i would also choose the start point closest to location. you wont stop ninjaflex from oozing during a jump so let them collect in an area then use some flush cutters to snip off the row of ooze from the model when done.

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insta
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by insta » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:32 am

Yep, it'll still jam and hate you, just because NinjaFlex does that, but that's the closest you'll get.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org

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insta
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by insta » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:33 am

jimc wrote:i print a boat load of ninjaflex. insta is right. hotter is better. i run it at 255. you do not need to heat the bed at all. i do much better with the bed cold. you can print on cold glass as long as its very clean but i put just a single mist coat of hairspray on the glass and from that point i can just print and print without ever retreating it. slower is better too. print speeds you are seeing will vary from printer to printer and the hot end you are using. there has been a change in the ninjaflex recently. older stuff has a very fine and slight texture to the filament. this is fine and feeds great in the m2. the new stuff is smooth which is fine as well but you need to get a pure teflon feed tube. it will not slip through the clear stock makergear feed tube. you want the white and really slippery stuff. i know the stuff from printedsolid.com is good. if you have an extra hot end i would definitely try to dedicate that to ninjaflex. add some coasting. do not retract more than 1mm. i would also choose the start point closest to location. you wont stop ninjaflex from oozing during a jump so let them collect in an area then use some flush cutters to snip off the row of ooze from the model when done.
Kevin keepin' you busy with prints?
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org

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jimc
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by jimc » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:38 am

yes but slowed down a little lately. still testing and making changes. typical "in beta" tweaks. i have one machine just dedicated to ninjaflex.

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atomholc
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by atomholc » Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:08 pm

Thanks for the advice.
I found this tube on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C45 ... UTF8&psc=1
jimc wrote:add some coasting. do not retract more than 1mm.
Could you explain this? What's coasting and what do you mean don't retract more than 1mm?

So is there anything else I need to do in the settings besides setting the extruder to 255C and the speed down to 1100mm/min?

Dale Reed
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by Dale Reed » Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:20 am

atomholc wrote: Could you explain this? What's coasting and what do you mean don't retract more than 1mm?
Coast is a feature in S3D (and maybe other slicers) where the extrusion of filament is stopped before the X/Y motion stops. The idea is that pushing the filament into the hot end builds up pressure behind the nozzle, and coast lets that built-up pressure finish the threadline at the end of the extrusion move so that the rapid (non-extruding move) that follows will have less ooze and stringing.

Retraction is a feature in which the filament is pulled back (negative extrusion) a little bit, again to relieve built-up pressure behind the nozzle, before a rapid. Retraction can also be configured to include a Z-lift, where the bed is lowered a tad (increasing Z, moving the nozzle away from the part) before the rapid to keep the nozzle from hitting portions of the print that may be "taller than they should be" during the fast X/Y movement. If you print the BIGFOOT head sample that came on the SD card with you M2, you'll see the Z knob make these back and forth motions when rapids occur. That's Z-lift. The usual routine when retraction and Z-lift are enabled is to retract the filament, lift Z, do the rapid X/Y move, return Z and return the filament. S3D also has a feature where you can offset the return of the filament -- for really oozy materials, you can put a small negative number in there to keep from pushing too much filament into the nozzle and building up too much pressure (and leaving a zit) at the start of the next extruding move.

Hope that was all clear. I could describe it so much better in person with a white board and a bunch of color markers...
Dale

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atomholc
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Re: Ninjaflex with Simplify3D

Post by atomholc » Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:29 am

Ok, I think I got it.

2nd setting from the bottom, click on 'coast at end' and change it to 1 mm?

the rest of the checklist ...
- Use a new nozzle dedicated to the filament. (but not necessary if I clean it)
- Set extruder to 250C
- set speed to 1100 mm/min
- spray hot bed with hair spray, or just leave off or set to 50C ... seems like whatever will work
- side mounted spool is ok but switch tube to a silicon version
- set infill percentage to 90%
- print at 'high' quality?

Am I missing anything? :geek: :geek: :geek: :geek:
Thanks!

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