PETG calibration prints

[insta]

I've got to get my M2s dialed in on PETG better ... are there recommended prints for "print this and adjust this value until these towers / stringing / whatever goes away"?

[jimc]

nothing specific but the original torture test print would be good since it has the thin wall box and the pillars. thats really all you need. its always gonna string a little. i will also print a 1mm x 10mm x 60mm bar on edge occasionally as a temp test. when you try to snap it along the layer lines it should not break with the layers. it will usually shoot across like if you were trying to snap a thin piece of plexiglass. this lets you know your temp is high enough. drop 5 deg and print another. another 5 deg and another until it breaks along the lines. once it breaks along the layer lines then bump the temp back up 5 deg and thats your golden temp. you want the lowest temp you can while still getting full layer adhesion.

[Matt_Sharkey]

i will also print a 1mm x 10mm x 60mm bar on edge occasionally as a temp test. when you try to snap it along the layer lines it should not break with the layers. it will usually shoot across like if you were trying to snap a thin piece of plexiglass. this lets you know your temp is high enough. drop 5 deg and print another. another 5 deg and another until it breaks along the lines. once it breaks along the layer lines then bump the temp back up 5 deg and thats your golden temp. you want the lowest temp you can while still getting full layer adhesion.

This is where I wish i could bookmark individual posts within the forum... Never heard of this method, but it makes so much sense

[jimc]

well its just something i came up with a long time ago back when i was doing testing for colorfabb xt and also when the esun was being developed. doesnt work for abs or pla since that always breaks on the layer lines

[CCVirginia]

I used this method to print a multi-temp calibration cuboid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRi ... e=youtu.be
This seemed faster than printing a bunch of small cubes!

What I found surprising was that PetG adhesion (which seemed to be an issue) came out best at 235c, at the higher temps (255+) Pet+ was white like it was bubbling/boiling. I was surprised by this low temp. On the down-side, I did have 2 prints just stop extruding mid print, perhaps due to higher viscosity - but then I tightened the extruder. Perhaps one of the many other settings is not right.

Using: M2, V4 Hot end / Simplify3D

Request:

What would be GREAT for us new guys is a full "dial it in" process from the experts - all the steps (and parts) to get it right when you get a new filament. When trying to put together the many suggestions from forums we may not be mix the process right.

For example, I thought I had basic MG PLA right at "fast" then printed at "fine" and all was not well.

[jimc]

One thing to remember is pet+ is totally different than petg. The plus is madesolids own pet formula. Their solid colors never layer bond real well. The same or a little less than abs. Petg should bond into a solid piece. On the bubbly note. I have white pet+ here and have never seen that. I print it at 265 to get it to layer bond better.

[CCVirginia]

Thanks JIMC - I originally got Pet+ (Clear) as microcenter has the entire line and they are 15 min away (So I have a "what you can get local bias" but will order something if it is clearly better). I think it was Pet+ that was bubbly above 250, I get confused. I also didn't realize they were so different, so far they have seemed similar. After some frustration with Pet+ I got clear Pet-G (Also at MC, but only 1-2 colors) (because this was discussed on the forum more) and did the tower calibration test, and that came up better at 235 but I could still break a single layer with a medium finger-nail push. So, perhaps you could divulge all of your settings and I could try that combo?

On a similar note I got Translucent purple with the M2 and found it not like the black at all. It seems more like pet - kind of stringy.

I am still VERY MUCH in the learning curve for the "dial it in" fun!

Would really love to see a full "process" for the dialing in a filament with all the steps and calibration thingies

Edit: Yup, just found my temp cube for Pet-G (Picture), it is not bubbly - that was Pet+ (Other picture)

WIll try 250-255 again based on these comments!

[jimc]

If ypur petg is breaking apart then your too low on the temp. 235 is a bit low. It prints good there but the bond sux. 245-255 should be the range you need to be in. The translucent pet+ layer bonds much better. Its the opaque colors that have trouble. I have really found no advantage to paying the super high price of pet+ when you can get petg that performs as good or better for about 1/3 the price.

[Bratag]

If ypur petg is breaking apart then your too low on the temp. 235 is a bit low. It prints good there but the bond sux. 245-255 should be the range you need to be in. The translucent pet+ layer bonds much better. Its the opaque colors that have trouble. I have really found no advantage to paying the super high price of pet+ when you can get petg that performs as good or better for about 1/3 the price.

Second this. I have yet to get a nice print out of the pet+ white filament. The solid red and translucent blue print just fine.
On the other hand I have yet to get a bad print out of the petg in any color and it costs so much less.