Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by theboz1419 » Sun Oct 22, 2017 3:46 pm

Your gap maybe a tad too large and that's why the PET is not laminating together.

I am doing an Esun PET print right now and I'm getting good results an extruder temp of 247° and bed temp of 80°, I believe most of the other settings are the same as this guide. Here is a link to my Octoprint The current print has about 70 layers to go
Builder of custom wifi BBQ temperature controllers

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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by GBuchwitz » Sun Oct 22, 2017 5:08 pm


Thanks for your suggestion that my gap might be too large. I can’t seem to figure out how to reduce gap (which I assume you mean the gap between the perimeter shell layers and between infill and the shell) using S3D settings. What S3D parameters affect this?

Before receiving your reply I found that increasing Outline Overlap from 15% to 30% seemed to improve bonding between the strap’s infill and the innermost shell layers. The outermost shell layers of the strap still delaminate, and I’m still having difficulty separating the dense support material as well as making the hair disappear.

I suspect that the thin, flexible nature of my strap may be revealing aspects of PETG bending properties which merit special attention. I didn’t experience this delamination in my straps printed in PLA.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and settings, and I hope those last 70 layers of your print turned out great.

V/r, - guy

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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by 86bg » Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:35 pm

psd wrote:
econopotamus wrote:A question for PETG users: how does it fair on a practical level if you try to saw it / drill it / tap holes? I'm using ABS because I love being able to machine it a bit afterward to get the bolt holes threaded and just the right diameters and such. Does 3d printed PETG do okay with this? PLA is horrible of course - for drilling or tapping.
PETG is very tough, but also brittle, I don't think it will handle tapping or machining well.
I would defer to ABS for that.

PETG is also hard to glue, as it doesn't weld with any substances I have found so far, so you are left with CA (with potential hazing) or Epoxy as a solution.
I disagree. I have drilled and tapped with much success.

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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by kvcaner » Tue Aug 06, 2019 3:27 pm

Greetings All!

First before I begin let me start by saying I have read through all 19 pages of comments on this thread and found the information to be both insightful and very informative as well as helpful! Thank you to all who have contributed.

I stumbled across this thread in a Google search while looking for answers to my problems printing with eSUN PETG True Black. After having read through the entire thread it seems clear everyone hear appears to be using Simplify3D, and most are using a MK2 printer?

Well I hope I won't be drummed off the forum for admitting, I'm not using either.......

We do all have 3D printing in common though right? We can still be friends, right?

OK, so to my issue. I am relatively new to 3D printing, however I have come a long way in a short amount of time. I have PLA humming along quite well and wanted to try printing with some other types of filament. I chose eSUN PETG based on recommendations from others I know and trust as well as youtube and forum advice I had either seen or read.

I started out with my basic PLA settings and adjusted retraction, speed and temperature settings to start some baseline tests (temp towers, string tests etc.). All of which allowed me to determine that a temp of about 240c for the hot end (all metal Micro-swiss) and a bed temp of 85c (might try dropping that to 80c as I'm seeing some elephant's foot artifact). Retraction hasn't been dialed in completely yet, but is working fine at 4.0mm at 60mm/sec. I should mention that this is with a recent conversion to Direct Drive from a Boden tube setup.

So here is the issue, I started with the recommendation I had read here and elsewhere to subtract .01 from your calibrated Extrusion multiplier ("Flow Rate" in Cura 4.1). I took my rate for PLA, which was 85% and reduced it to 84% as a starting point for PETG. The "Skirt and perimeters printed beautifully, however as soon as it starts to print the "floor", the nozzle would drag through the material being laid down and accumulate the obligatory blobs of molten filament and begin indiscriminately stringing all over the place (how rude)! No worries, I dropped the "flow rate" down another 3% and tried again. Better but still not right. I continued on until I was happy with the result changing only the "flow rate".

My question is this, I started out with a flow rate that produces good results for my PLA of 85%, reduced it to 84% as a starting point for PETG, and finally through iteration have reduced all the way down to a "flow rate" of 68%!!! This seems like a VERY low number to me when everything I have seen or read suggests only minor tweaking should be necessary. I can't argue with the results however. The test prints I have done have good adhesion, are strong, with a smooth finish. They exhibit minimal stringing and only have occasional "zits" and "blobs" on the surface.

I am seeking any insights into what might be responsible for the large difference in "flow rate" between my PLA settings and my PETG settings.

My plan at this point is to next try reducing the bed temp 5c and see if that helps with the "Elephant's foot". Then print a single walled cube with a single perimeter to calibrate wall thickness. Usually I would adjust this with the "flow rate", increasing or decreasing it to arrive at the correct wall thickness. However I am going to try adjusting the "Line Width" in Cura's slicer settings (don't know what it's called in S3D).

To anyone who took the time to read through my entire post, thank you! To those who will take the time to respond, OMG you are awesome!

Best Regards,

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