Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

[Jules]

You have the X/Y Axis Movement Speed set to 12000.0 mm/min. Is this correct or did you mean 1200 mm/min? I want to make sure before I start printing.

12,000 mm/min (You can actually take that up to 16,000 mm/min.)

[knuckleup10]

Thanks for the reply back and thank you for the time you put into this post. I'm sure this has helped out a lot of people to include my self. I just started 3D Printing two weeks ago and was lost. I'm going to start PETG this week with your recommended setting and I will keep this post updated with pics. I will be using (MatterHackers PETG) for the trial run.

[bshady3]

hey guys

I started to print with PETG as it is a great alternative to ABS. However i cant seem to get the settings dialed in. The main issue i am trying to fix is the bed leveling. The exact result of being to close to the bed like you said is zits and blobs which is what i am getting however no matter how far or close i go to the bed i still get those zits! i tried several different temperatures slower speeds and nothing seems to be working. the nozzle after every print is covered in gunk and i get tons of zits!

I do have to admit i am not getting the bed leveled perfectly as for some reason it doesn't want to be leveled. However like i said i tried 1,000 different heights!

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really want to work with PETG!!

[Jules]

Unfortunately, getting it leveled is a critical first step. Without that, it's kind of useless to try to adjust the gap - it's always gonna be hitting somewhere.

If you have the Rev E, run through the QuickStart application again from the beginning to get it leveled and set the gap size.

If it were level, you could code a slightly larger gap into it using the information here:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3666&p=27623&hilit=how+to%3A#p27623

[psd]

I have played with my settings so much for PETG, that I am now getting bad quality under any supports and bottom layers that are not in contact with the bed.

does anyone have specific support settings that could help or should I just go back to the initial PETG settings Jules posted and zero everything out?

thanks!

[econopotamus]

A question for PETG users: how does it fair on a practical level if you try to saw it / drill it / tap holes? I'm using ABS because I love being able to machine it a bit afterward to get the bolt holes threaded and just the right diameters and such. Does 3d printed PETG do okay with this? PLA is horrible of course - for drilling or tapping.

[psd]

A question for PETG users: how does it fair on a practical level if you try to saw it / drill it / tap holes? I'm using ABS because I love being able to machine it a bit afterward to get the bolt holes threaded and just the right diameters and such. Does 3d printed PETG do okay with this? PLA is horrible of course - for drilling or tapping.

PETG is very tough, but also brittle, I don't think it will handle tapping or machining well.
I would defer to ABS for that.

PETG is also hard to glue, as it doesn't weld with any substances I have found so far, so you are left with CA (with potential hazing) or Epoxy as a solution.

[Phil]

PETG is also hard to glue, as it doesn't weld with any substances I have found so far, so you are left with CA (with potential hazing) or Epoxy as a solution.

Have you tried friction welding? A round piece should be pretty easy to do, such as with a drill. More complicated shapes will be exponentially harder to do, though.

[psd]

PETG is also hard to glue, as it doesn't weld with any substances I have found so far, so you are left with CA (with potential hazing) or Epoxy as a solution.

Have you tried friction welding? A round piece should be pretty easy to do, such as with a drill. More complicated shapes will be exponentially harder to do, though.

I have purchased a dimmable wood burner, welder and i manage to weld peices with heat, although this is only good when you don't mind the aesthetic of a squish mark.

[GBuchwitz]

PETG strap Outline delaminations

Hi!

I'm new to 3D printing. I'm using an M3 in conjunction with Simplify3D.

When I approached S3D Tech Support for help with a printed strap (about 1/16" x 6" x 1/2") breaking, they suggested I try PETG as a more flexible alternative to PLA.

Imagine how happy I was to find your guide covering S3D settings for my eSUN PETG filament using a MakerGear printer!

My initial print - attempting to follow your recommendations for strong layer adhesion (e.g. Zero bed fan. Extruder = 242C. Bed = 85C.) - looked great... until I attempted to separate the (dense) strap support and the outline layers around the strap's infill completely delaminated (photo attached). I know your notes don't recommend using dense support, but I wanted to see if I could optimize the appearance of the underside of the strap (which faces the print bed).

Coupling your guidance with some layer adhesion recommendations in S3D's quality guide, I made the following changes to my S3D settings:
1. I measured/entered my filament diameter.
2. Increased Extrusion Multiplier from 0.88 to 0.93.

These changes helped quite a bit, but portions of the strap's outline layers were still not bonding to the infill or to each other. Encouraged, I made additional changes:
1. Increased the Extrusion Multiplier further from 0.93 to 0.95.
2. Increased Infill Outline Overlap from 10% to 15%.
3. Increased Infill Extrusion Width from 103% to 110%.

These changes made things worse... probably because I don't know what I'm doing. The outline delamination increased. The dense support material was stuck to the strap so strongly that the strap cracked when I attempted to separate it. Also, the print now had a bunch of fine hairs.

Any suggestions toward improving the bonding between the strap's outline and infill layers would be appreciated, and thank you so much for sharing your PETG guide with all of us.

V/r, - guy