Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

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hybridprinter
Posts: 141
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by hybridprinter » Sat Feb 11, 2017 7:47 pm

Does anybody have the following specs on the eSun PETG 1kg, 1.75mm diameter spools.

Empty Spool Weight = ?
Full Spool Weight = ?
Length of Filament on new spool = ?

psd
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by psd » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:19 pm

Just checked and empty.
empty spool weight 218.7 g
assuming that full spool weight would be 1218.7
- peter,

innovative product designer and tinkerer

www.petersolomondesign.com

hybridprinter
Posts: 141
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by hybridprinter » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:28 pm

Thank you. Is that spool clear? (spool color not filament color).
psd wrote:Just checked and empty.
empty spool weight 218.7 g
assuming that full spool weight would be 1218.7

psd
Posts: 182
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:09 pm

Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by psd » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:41 pm

yes clear spool, have linked photo
IMG_3317.JPG
eSun PETG spool
- peter,

innovative product designer and tinkerer

www.petersolomondesign.com

psd
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Problems printing large objects with support in PETG

Post by psd » Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:10 pm

I have been printing PETG parts on my M2 (PEI sheet on glass bed) with S3D pretty successfully with little need for twerking beyond the wonderful settings laid out in this forum.

I began having big problems on big parts, mostly with peeling up of parts or of support.
Every time that I then tweeted a setting it became worse and worse, I now need to print 3-4 times before I can get a successful large part with supports.

I will try to list the problems in hierarchical order, if anyone can help me better understand.

1. Large parts in PETG begin to peel and lift, should I adjust my fans, my bed temps or build an enclosed cabinet to reduce or eliminate this?

2. as I am printing large parts globs form around the part and sometimes these cling to the nozzle and destroy the part or clog the nozzle.

3. Supports begin to lift up as solid parts are built above since the mass of the solid cools and shrinks with more force than the cling force of the supports.

4. If I use a raft, supports stick down better.
But, if I try to use raft, the layers of the raft which begin to make the fact surface over the honeycomb (maybe 3rd or forth layer) make hairs and then globs that stick to the nozzle and eventually bowl over the next layers, or clog the head.
Also the raft seems to print very slowly. Is there a setting adjustment for the raft?

5. Supports stick to my object surface and do not break away well (upper and lower surfaces, not lateral) is there a setting to improve the gap for the supports to clean up better? Is there a way to get better part surfaces on support sides?

6. Also I notice that as I am printing the PETG many times there is a build up on my nozzle, not sure if this is due to all of the above mentioned problems, or if I just have my settings set wrong.

I have calibrated the heights and machine to a calibration cube as described in one of the forums.

Thanks!
- peter,

innovative product designer and tinkerer

www.petersolomondesign.com

hybridprinter
Posts: 141
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by hybridprinter » Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:47 am

Does anyone have a starting script which will not home the z axis into the hot end thus pushing any ozzing material back up against nozzel and making a mess of the nozzle?

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ednisley
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by ednisley » Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:33 pm

hybridprinter wrote:making a mess of the nozzle
After all the homing, I park the nozzle just off the front end of the platform until it's done heating, then prime-and-wipe on the edge of the platform:
https://softsolder.com/2015/03/31/maker ... -whatever/

Image

That blog post walks you through the sequence, but the general idea is that the blob sticks to the front of the glass and pulls (nearly) all of the snot off the nozzle as it moves away.

You can't use my startup G-Code directly, because I have a different mechanical setup, but you can adapt the relevant lines for your startup sequence.

CAUTION: my platform doesn't have corner clips or retainers, so the nozzle path follows the edge of the platform and will collide with the standard hardware.

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:52 pm

When you start a print, just use the tweezers to pull the glob down when it purges to the side. Makes for a neater print without the smear.

If you don't remove the glob with a wipe on the glass or by cleaning with the tweezers when you start a print, it winds up IN your print, which you don't want.

hybridprinter
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by hybridprinter » Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:00 pm

the issue is not on the right side of the bed (during the initial purge), it is the issue that happens on the left side of the bed at the initial homing that happens at beginning of a print job.. the G28 line below in starting script of Simplify3D.

M108 S255 ; turn on M2 fans
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Y50 Z0.3 F9600 ; move forward to avoid binder clips
G1 X205 Z10 ; move off platform
G1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E25 F150 ; purge nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 X190 Z0.1 E1.0 F1200 ; slow wipe
G1 X180 Z0.25 ; lift

Jules wrote:When you start a print, just use the tweezers to pull the glob down when it purges to the side. Makes for a neater print without the smear.

If you don't remove the glob with a wipe on the glass or by cleaning with the tweezers when you start a print, it winds up IN your print, which you don't want.

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ednisley
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by ednisley » Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:17 pm

hybridprinter wrote:the G28 line
That command homes all the axes at the same time, so don't do that.

By specifying the axes in the G28 command, you can home them individually with the nozzle wherever you want. In the startup code I referred to, I move the platform downward, home Y, home X, move the nozzle off to the right, then home Z.

With all the axes homed and sitting at known positions, I can move the nozzle to the center front of the platform, pressurize the hot end into a mighty blob against the edge of the glass platform, then wipe it off.

If you want to move the nozzle in a unique manner, then you must write the G-Code commands that produce exactly those motions.

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