Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Aug 30, 2015 2:37 pm

I seem to have a decent 2-layer surface, on 20% infill, by speeding up the bridge.
Good! Mine sometimes forms pits/holes over skimpy infill. 20% still shows a few depressions with only 2 surface layers, and for what i'm doing with it, that's not good enough. (Bridging is a whole other issue.)
The direction of bridging makes a big difference in the quality, with bridging along the x axis (from left to right) being best, and bridging along the y axis (front to back) being worst. Angled bridging falls in between.
How can this be?
I would guess its because the motor along the X axis travels faster (less weight for the X axis motor to pull along). Takes a bit more "oomph" to move that whole spider and plate business along the Y.
Bed: Zebra Plate
Currenly using glass, so I can't see how flat a flexible plate could be. Can you really just lay the plate down and have it as flat as glass? And is it as smooth?
Yep! :D Try it, you'll like it! (So wonderful to finally ditch the hairspray!) PEI is even better if you absolutely need a flat surface, and it works great with PETG.
I just started using retraction minimally and more slowly, and only when the travel distance is more than 50 mm. This is because more/faster retraction was causing the drive gear to dig into and squash the filament, which caused it to get stuck in the extruder.
Jim is dead-on with the tension issue and the filament squashing. :D I found that using less retraction was causing a lot of oozing/stringing issues (and zits) all over the print, which were tedious to cut off afterwards. But if you've got something that works, do not mess with it. I don't have all the answers, just what worked for me. ;)
use one of the infill patterns that prints every layer....
Would this be because each layer would have less volume needing to be melted? I am currently infilling every 3rd layer, so I guess that means 3 times the volume.
Jim nailed this one too - it's providing structure and support for the saggy filament. Printing every third layer is going to cut way down on the print time, but the part is going to crush/break/delaminate much more easily. But again, it depends on what you are using it for - if it's just a display object, you probably don't need super strength, so do whatever works.

And thanks for putting in your experience with it! It's good to know that the printing range for the filament is a lot more flexible than i thought, and the more expert users put in their knowledge, the easier it is for the newbies to pick it up and run with it. :D
Last edited by Jules on Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:34 am, edited 3 times in total.

Kulturfolger
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Kulturfolger » Sun Aug 30, 2015 3:10 pm

With simplify3d you can raise the "minimum travel for retraction" to 6 or more mm. Most of the time the oozing appears when the printer is forced to slow down. Those defaults "Adjust printing speed for layers below"... forces the printer to change printing speed all the time. Best is to keep the same speed all the time, this way the pressure stays the same within the hotend. Doing some quick infill and then slowing down for the outline or small parts creates many issues.

I managed to print with the v3b and e3dv6 with a layer height of 0.1mm while getting minium unwanted stringing, oozing and so on. All I do is keep up the speed. The infill is 100% as strength is the key to those parts I print.

Currently (since 3 rolls) the retraction is 0.8 at 5000mm/s with no vertical lift, the minimum travel for retraction is at 6mm to prevent gear-like-shapes getting many many retraction which causes the filament-grinding. I got no blockings here, but I believe this causes many issues with consistency, the amount of filament extruded tends to differ.

When the print fails after a few layers its mostly the heat creeping up when printing really slow or when parts are overextruded and there is much pressure layed down. Every nozzle diameter brings in a lot of changes in the behavior.

Last but not least: I really love the "coast at end" feature for small nozzle diameters. This prevents the typically strings and bloobs while switching between multiple parts.
Feel free to correct my mistakes. English is not my native language.

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Aug 30, 2015 4:12 pm

Best is to keep the same speed all the time, this way the pressure stays the same within the hotend. Doing some quick infill and then slowing down for the outline or small parts creates many issues.

I managed to print with the v3b and e3dv6 with a layer height of 0.1mm while getting minium unwanted stringing, oozing and so on. All I do is keep up the speed.
That is an interesting idea - i'm going to have to experiment with those settings to see if i get the same results.

Thanks for the input! :D

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insta
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by insta » Sun Aug 30, 2015 7:39 pm

That's what I do ...
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Aug 30, 2015 8:21 pm

insta wrote:That's what I do ...
Ahem! And why has this not been mentioned until now? :lol:

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insta
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by insta » Sun Aug 30, 2015 10:08 pm

Because I opt for quantity over quality ;)
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Aug 30, 2015 10:42 pm

insta wrote:Because I opt for quantity over quality ;)
Yeah, i can certainly understand that - still it's handy to know you can do it when you have to knock out a few hundred little Christmas stocking stuffers for nieces and nephews! :lol:

CCVirginia
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by CCVirginia » Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:57 pm

I'm trying to print something long and dense with PetG (Using the blue because I have some). I have tried my original Petg settings and the ones on the start of this thread. Here is the issue:

Problem 1: Corners of the print with some 45d overhang curl up - not a bed adhesion issue, this is up about 5 mm+. It gets to the point I stop it because something will hit something. So, I then printed hot (both the bed and hot end) 260/95 with the fan on. No more curls! BUT about 1/2 way through....

Problem 2: the print warps and pulls off the bed. From the looks of it gluing harder to the bed probably would not work, there is to much force. It makes sense that the hot bed and fan would cause a lot of uneven shrinkage.

Added note: Hairspray on glass using V4.

I have tried the setting on the start of this thread and variations. I get one of the 2 problems. For problem 1 I note that the edges are soft while printing - perhaps from the bed. It seems to be worse around supports so this would suggest it is to much heat. Some external threads have suggested more heat and speed, others the opposite!

I could post pictures, but I think you know what it looks like.

Any thoughts?

BTW: I used 260 because this is where a hollow test cube seemed to get good layer adhesion. But, perhaps with a solid object the temp would be lower.

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Jules
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by Jules » Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:40 pm

95 seems high for the bed temp - that might indeed give you soft edges at the base. I used 85° bed for bare glass and 90-95 with a Zebra plate, but that inherently cuts the temp that you get at the printing surface by from 5 to 10 degrees, so that's why that setting is so high.

I'm also surprised you are getting warping - PETG is a lot better than PLA on overhangs. That might be because the nozzle temp is also high - I print routinely at 245° for PETG. (Sometimes 250 on the first layer only to get it to stick to the plate well.)

You might want to try dropping your temps and cut the fan - PETG bonds better with no fan. As far as the overhangs go, 45 degrees is the limit, and if you are running the nozzle hot, it might be struggling a bit. You might have to print it with support. Support will keep it from curling up.

Yes, more hairspray. You need a nice even thick layer as a base. I actually used to pool it until it was a little puddle on the glass, then spread it around to every spot that the print is going to touch. :D

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jimc
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Re: Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

Post by jimc » Sun Sep 06, 2015 10:31 pm

Almost every print i do with petg has 45-50 deg overhangs. Couple things...as jules said lower the bed temp. No reason to go over 80c. The hotter the bed the softer the hairspray coating will be. Always print at the lowest temp you can get away with. I have never needed to go over 80c on the bed. 255-260 is ok for the esun but if you have overhange you will need a fan on. Att 255-260 you will not have any layer bonding issues with using a fan. Another thing for cleaning up those overhangs is extrusion amt. the more you overextrude the more blobby the overhang corners will be. Underextrusion with petg is always better than over extrusion.

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