MakerGear Forum

I should have been more clear. The corners (and some short sides) are pulling up, not hanging down. I have tried it with lower temps - exactly the ones in the front of this thread.
I'm not sure what the cause of the pulling up is, my guess would be that it is "head drag/pull" when it is soft.

Yes thats what happens when you get heat soak in corners or overhangs. They always curl up. You need a fan on or print other items with it so it has plently if cooling time. Thise overhangs need to be solid before you do the next layer.

New word - "Heat soak".
Now to balance the heat soak with the warp/bed adhesion (problem 2).
I would have thought it would have cooled if it was going to, it is not that small (perhaps 1x6"). but I can try some extra cooling time and a lower bet temp.

Back now from the post-wedding family gathering party....I am now officially "Partied Out"! What a weekend!

New word - "Heat soak".
Now to balance the heat soak with the warp/bed adhesion (problem 2).
I would have thought it would have cooled if it was going to, it is not that small (perhaps 1x6"). but I can try some extra cooling time and a lower bet temp.

Hey, if it was easy, anyone could do it! It's the little quirks that make it a challenge!

CCVirginia wrote:I should have been more clear. The corners (and some short sides) are pulling up, not hanging down. I have tried it with lower temps - exactly the ones in the front of this thread.
I'm not sure what the cause of the pulling up is, my guess would be that it is "head drag/pull" when it is soft.

Soft edges appear when the bed temperature is to high or the extruder temperature is to low. Lower extruder temperatures and slow printing speed make things worse. Add a rim to the printed part or optimize the part by adding flat circles to the corners.
For very small parts a raft at high bed temperature helps, when the first raft layer is finished I lower the temperature from 85 to 70 degrees.

I plan on getting a larger nozzle (.5 probably) Will this be ok for PEtg?

Also, I saw some of you talking about .6 nozzles; where do you get those?

jcspball13 wrote:I plan on getting a larger nozzle (.5 probably) Will this be ok for PEtg?

Also, I saw some of you talking about .6 nozzles; where do you get those?

.5 could work on PETG but my only concern is: you are effectively doubling the volumetric output of the nozzle, and PETG is already one of the hottest filaments that an M2 can take stock. the hotend might have trouble keeping up.

I have come to the conclusion that PETG is one of the best filaments to use for all around projects, at the expense that you must be patient and take it slow. if you need fast prototyping, go for PLA

.5 nozzles work great for petg. the .6 nozzle is the standard large nozzle for the e3d hot end. .6 works fine too but i do prefer the .5 because i can print at about the same speed and layer heights as i normally do and it gives me a touch more control and detail. on both the v4 and e3d i print with a .5 or .6 at a .3-.35 layer height at roughly 3800mm/min.

CCVirginia wrote:I should have been more clear. The corners (and some short sides) are pulling up, not hanging down.

Can you provide a photo? Some objects shapes make printing with PETG a real pain, for example rounded corners facing down tend to bend up. Another thing that curls the material upwards is printing a slope with many outer shells, the more often the nozzle touches the previous part the more these curls occur. Better go with two outer shells and 100% infill instead of six or more outer shells. Add a raft with one layer only and add support "from build platform only". It might help a lot.

Take a look at the pictures. This is piece to connect mitsumi 20mm extrusions in a 90 degree shape. When printing like we would normally do with a flat side to the bottom there is much force involved trying to pull one side up as the printer builds this thing up. Most of the time this ends to a deformed piece with abs or petg.
The stress is reduced by flipping it by 135 degrees forming an equal-sided triangle. This piece stays in shape and prints very well.

Ingo

My eSun opaque black PETG would have no problem with the first picture.