PETG failing to feed, any thoughts

[jimc]

The drive and hot end filament path is 2mm. All the way from where it enters the filament drive down to the nozzle. If you have drilled that out to 2mm and your running petg say 3600/mm min or slower at 255 deg then you should nit see any binding at all as ling as the tension is totally torqued down. The texture on the filament is very fine and has nothing to do with it. That actually makes for less friction not more. If all above is correct then you have other issues. Clogged nozzle or bed gap is too tight etc.

[Kulturfolger]

I print hat 4800,0mm/min -> 80mm. Slower means weakens the part. Extrusion with 0,42 at 0.1 Layer height.

Retraction height is short (keep it less then 1mm, I use 0,8mm but this may differ with your v3b). NO Vertical Lift, this takes forever and is the reason why oozing and stringing happends. Retraction Speed 4000 mm/min. If there is still some stringing, try it even quicker but the firmware may limit the speed.

The bed is at 70 degrees, the first layer sticks nicely at 120% layer height. It could be less but the z-switch is not very precise. I run the extruder at 250 degrees. No wear after two rolls of PETG.

Only a single fan aimed at the gear cooling the direct extruder. I replaced the fan with a silent one and use 12V to drive it. I added some tape at the bottom to direkt the air upwards so nothing can cool down the printed part.

Ingo

[MGuser]

PETG sticks to PETG, perhaps a PETG extruder isn't the best for PETG?

I think that PETG is very slippery on itself, like nylon. My extruder came in PLA, and I'll probably re-print in PETG (black).

Slower means weakens the part

My understanding is that slower extruding actually increases part strength. May have something to do with the nozzle pre-heating the area and generally supplying more heat so that the new plastic has more time to melt into the previous layer.

[insta]

PETG sticks to PETG, perhaps a PETG extruder isn't the best for PETG?

I think that PETG is very slippery on itself, like nylon. My extruder came in PLA, and I'll probably re-print in PETG (black).

Slower means weakens the part

My understanding is that slower extruding actually increases part strength. May have something to do with the nozzle pre-heating the area and generally supplying more heat so that the new plastic has more time to melt into the previous layer.

come again?

[MGuser]

I have a steel i3 Prusa, and it's Wades extruder was blue PLA. I originally wanted the M2 but something was missing that I wanted.

[jcspball13]

Still no luck with PETG

; tried reprinting extruder with no luck yet!

Anyone know if there is a metal version of the filament drive? Does it work?

[Jules]

Still no luck with PETG

; tried reprinting extruder with no luck yet!

Anyone know if there is a metal version of the filament drive? Does it work?

Loosen the tension a little bit more - PETG does not require much more tension than PLA.

This might help, don't know if you saw it before:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2694

[jimc]

you dont need a metal filament drive. the plastic ones work awesome. your problem lies elsewhere. too much tension, too fast a feed rate, etc.

[jcspball13]

Thanks as always for the help!

I have since been able to print Petg successfully; they don't look great yet, but it is feeding and worked 100% on a 3 hour job. Still tweaking a little!

[jcspball13]

Ok I got the prints working every time but I'm getting little "pimples" around the outside of print. Any idea of what to adjust to get rid of these; I can get pictures if it would help