Abs filament sent by mistake; anyone wanna trade?

[jcspball13]

I ordered 2 rolls of bumat elite pla from Amazon; had a coupon so I figured I would try it. Looks like someone labeled it wrong, and instead I got 2 rolls of abs! Being a total noob I have not be able to dial in abs well yet and was wondering if anyone wanted to trade for either pla or petg; the colors are neon green and neon yellow.

Any takers?

On a side note; anyone have good abs settings to use? I have a .5mm nozzle and v3b hot end!

[Jules]

Why don't you just return the ABS for exchange? Amazon has a really good return policy.

[jcspball13]

I was afraid I would just get abs again if the labels were all messed up!

[Jules]

They'll probably be a bit more careful next time, or you could just return it for a refund.

For ABS settings, check out "Insta's Filaments that work with the M2 thread on the Filaments Forum. (Great place to go for all the filament settings.)

[insta]

I ordered 2 rolls of bumat elite pla from Amazon; had a coupon so I figured I would try it. Looks like someone labeled it wrong, and instead I got 2 rolls of abs! Being a total noob I have not be able to dial in abs well yet and was wondering if anyone wanted to trade for either pla or petg; the colors are neon green and neon yellow.

Any takers?

On a side note; anyone have good abs settings to use? I have a .5mm nozzle and v3b hot end!

0.5mm & v3b is an ideal combination for ABS. I use it quite extensively, actually.

Apply Kapton to a clean glass bed (your printer came with some), set your bed to an even 100C, quick mist of Aquanet Extreme Hold hairspray over the hot bed, print with 4 skirt layers @ 0mm separation (a brim), 0.4mm first layer, 0.3mm subsequent layers, 40% infill, 40mm/sec print speeds, NO FAN, 235C.

NO FAN.

EN OH. EFF AY EN.

none.

[willnewton]

Just clarifying to prevent noob misinterpretation when setting up print parameters in the software, but I think instead of four skirt layers, you may have meant four perimeter passes for a wide, not thick, brim. Of course, I could be wrong and you have a secret ninja printing technique.

[insta]

Nope, you're right.

One thing I liked about slic3r vs. Simplify3D is that you had separate brim vs. skirt settings. On particularly tricky ABS prints I'd do a 5mm wide brim and a 9999-tall skirt @ 5mm spacing. It would entomb the part in a shell that held heat. I think I might have to fake it with the dual-extrusion ooze shield or something.

[jcspball13]

Still no luck will have to mess with it a little more! Still have 2 rolls for trade!

[Jules]

Nope, you're right.

One thing I liked about slic3r vs. Simplify3D is that you had separate brim vs. skirt settings. On particularly tricky ABS prints I'd do a 5mm wide brim and a 9999-tall skirt @ 5mm spacing. It would entomb the part in a shell that held heat. I think I might have to fake it with the dual-extrusion ooze shield or something.

That does work (the ooze shield) - very well. I've got a bunch of profiles under development....(and I swear to God, if this damned software throws one more curve ball at me I am not going to be responsible for my actions......)......ahem....sorry.....

As i was saying, a two perimeter contour shield, about 2-4mm away from the print, attached to a double layer, 8 outline brim, does one heck of a job keeping the heat in. I've noticed it with PLA - the shield might crack, but the interior print is fine. A double thickness shield is a lot more stable and easy enough to cut away that it's not an issue.

If you use a shield, the brim attaches to it, not the print. Makes for a nice stable base for the shield.

That part works.

[jcspball13]

Being a noob anyone care to share their simple3d abs file?