ePC hold-down method

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pyronaught
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ePC hold-down method

Post by pyronaught » Tue Oct 11, 2016 5:49 pm

It looks like people have been using ePC with success here, but I can't figure out how to get this material to stick to a PEI plate. I'm just trying to print a small filament drive with it and even that completely works itself off the plate after only 10mm or so of height. I've tried buffing the PEI with 600 grit for a coarser surface, smashing the first layer so flat you can barely even see it, printing slower and also plate temps between 70 to 100. None of this works. Also what speed should this be printed at? I'm using 4000mm/min, which seems to work ok for extrusion temp of 260.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.

3dPrintingMD
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by 3dPrintingMD » Tue Oct 11, 2016 7:19 pm

This is a harder material to work with in my opinion.

Hairspray and a 110* bed is what I have run. Can't comment on PEI, I can't get anything to stick to PEI. I print on MIC 6 only.
M2 - V4, MIC-6 Build Plate, Astrosyn Damper's(X/Y), Rev. E, Geeetech LCD

S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/

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zemlin
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by zemlin » Tue Oct 11, 2016 7:41 pm

Not certain, but I think I printed ePC on Kapton over glass without issue. I can confirm later. Physical properties seem about the same as PETG. Haven't seen numbers as far as thermal resistance comparing the two. I tried Gizmodorks Black PC and it warped like mad compared to the eSun clear, but I haven't used any more clear since the first time I tried it.

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pyronaught
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by pyronaught » Tue Oct 11, 2016 7:48 pm

I know jimc is printing extruder parts with ePC, but I think he uses Mic6 and hairspray. It seems like you should be able to use progressively coarser sandpaper to rough up the PEI surface until you reach a point where it sticks. ABS slurry also works with other plastics besides ABS, so I might try that next.

UPDATE: ePC doesn't want to stick to ABS slurry very well, so that didn't work.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.

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zemlin
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by zemlin » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:06 pm

pyronaught wrote:UPDATE: ePC doesn't want to stick to ABS slurry very well, so that didn't work.
That's interesting, because that was one suggestion I got from Gizmodorks for running their black - but I hadn't tried it.

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Jules
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by Jules » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:07 pm

In worst case scenarios, you can also spray hairspray onto the PEI to increase the holding power. :)

3dPrintingMD
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by 3dPrintingMD » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:20 pm

Gizmodorks Black PC was a total bust for me. I was really (and still am) mad about it. eSun's PC prints much easier than the GizmoDorks, I had nothing put failed attempt time and time over.

My biggest mistake with 3d printing is trying new products...lol...I just and am going to just stick to the ones that have worked for me.
M2 - V4, MIC-6 Build Plate, Astrosyn Damper's(X/Y), Rev. E, Geeetech LCD

S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/

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pyronaught
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by pyronaught » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:23 pm

zemlin wrote:
pyronaught wrote:UPDATE: ePC doesn't want to stick to ABS slurry very well, so that didn't work.
That's interesting, because that was one suggestion I got from Gizmodorks for running their black - but I hadn't tried it.
I think it was that the ABS slurry didn't stick to the PEI. When I sanded the ABS slurry area it left a ghost image of the part footprint, so I think the ABS stuck to the ePC but didn't stick to the PEI.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.

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pyronaught
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Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by pyronaught » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:42 pm

3dPrintingMD wrote:This is a harder material to work with in my opinion.

Hairspray and a 110* bed is what I have run. Can't comment on PEI, I can't get anything to stick to PEI. I print on MIC 6 only.

Have you tried lower bed temps? I couldn't tell any difference between 70 and 100, but waiting for the bed to reach 100 drives me crazy. It can get to 70 in a reasonable amount of time, but that extra 30 degrees feels like an additional 15 minutes of waiting.
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.

3dPrintingMD
Posts: 279
Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:37 am

Re: ePC hold-down method

Post by 3dPrintingMD » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:49 pm

pyronaught wrote:
3dPrintingMD wrote:This is a harder material to work with in my opinion.

Hairspray and a 110* bed is what I have run. Can't comment on PEI, I can't get anything to stick to PEI. I print on MIC 6 only.

Have you tried lower bed temps? I couldn't tell any difference between 70 and 100, but waiting for the bed to reach 100 drives me crazy. It can get to 70 in a reasonable amount of time, but that extra 30 degrees feels like an additional 15 minutes of waiting.
Can't remember if I tried to go lower, but there is/was a discussion on this in the forums, and most concluded you needed the temps. I think as it cools if it cools too much and the temps are low, it will pop off the plate.
M2 - V4, MIC-6 Build Plate, Astrosyn Damper's(X/Y), Rev. E, Geeetech LCD

S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/

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