Hello all. I'll be as brief as I can and hopefully still provide enough information for someone to offer some advice.
I am running 2 Makergear printers with Taulman 910 filament. I am printing a 2 piece clamp that fits together with some tabs printed on it. My issue is with bubbling of the bottom layers. After the print comes off the glass bed and sits for a little while, bubbling starts on the bottom. Here is what I've tried and the results
I am using 245c extruder temp and seem to get good results with that. I use elmers purple glue on the glass bed and have tried several bed temps. The best I got was when I ran the bed at 70c I got no bubbling. However, I had big chunks of the glass bed pop off when I removed the print. Makergear said they do not recommend using glue on the glass bed to use tape first. The problem when I use blue tape, then glue and a heated bed is I get warping of the print on the bottom. No bubbling but warping. Should I not be heating the bed or using glue with blue tape?
I have tried all variations of extruder temps and bed temps with and without tape but always with glue. I need some advice on a possible solution to my bubbling bottom layer. On the advice of Taluman, I manually lower the feed rate on the first 4 bottom layers to 25% then speed it back to 100% but that still hasn't fixed my issue.
Any advice would be appreciated. I only got in to 3D printing a couple of months ago and know I have a lot to learn.
Also, I did order aluminum beds from Makergear for my printers. Especially since both my glass beds have chunks missing now. Makergear did send me one glass replacement bed.
Taulman 910 Advice Needed
Re: Taulman 910 Advice Needed
Can you post a photo of a bubbly bottomed print? I'm having trouble visualizing it, it's not a problem I've run across.
The kind of tape that MakerGear is talking about using on the glass to protect it is Kapton tape. (That yellow film that comes on new plates.) The reason for it is to prevent exactly what happened to you - it keeps pieces of glass from popping off when we pry a print off too soon. (Got to let the print and the glass cool completely before trying to remove the print. Sticking it in the freezer for about 15 minutes or so speeds up the process. But you need to pry up from one small corner first, to let a bit of air underneath, and then run a thin spatula underneath that corner.)
Even if you do everything right when you are printing on bare glass with glue, sometimes that bit can pop off. So that's why we use Kapton tape.
If you have Mic6 plates coming, you won't have to worry about it though....those can handle the prying.
Or you can apply a sheet of PEI to your damaged plates, and they will hold without glue of any kind, and you won't be able to damage the plates by prying. PEI is much tougher and thicker than Kapton tape. You can also apply PEI to your Mic6 aluminum plates, and that is the best of all worlds.
There are a lot of writeups and discussions on PEI and Mic6 plates in the Modifications section of the forum. You might want to take a look at those.
The kind of tape that MakerGear is talking about using on the glass to protect it is Kapton tape. (That yellow film that comes on new plates.) The reason for it is to prevent exactly what happened to you - it keeps pieces of glass from popping off when we pry a print off too soon. (Got to let the print and the glass cool completely before trying to remove the print. Sticking it in the freezer for about 15 minutes or so speeds up the process. But you need to pry up from one small corner first, to let a bit of air underneath, and then run a thin spatula underneath that corner.)
Even if you do everything right when you are printing on bare glass with glue, sometimes that bit can pop off. So that's why we use Kapton tape.
If you have Mic6 plates coming, you won't have to worry about it though....those can handle the prying.
Or you can apply a sheet of PEI to your damaged plates, and they will hold without glue of any kind, and you won't be able to damage the plates by prying. PEI is much tougher and thicker than Kapton tape. You can also apply PEI to your Mic6 aluminum plates, and that is the best of all worlds.
There are a lot of writeups and discussions on PEI and Mic6 plates in the Modifications section of the forum. You might want to take a look at those.
Re: Taulman 910 Advice Needed
I print nylon 910 at 265°C to 270°C (most of the time at 265°C) and I only take the filament out to print when everything is sliced in the software and ready to go (nylon absorbs moisture, etc.), I run the prints at 60-80 mm/s and 1st layer only at 50% speed but noticed that when I print very slow on any layer I get small bubbles as well (not with brand new filament though). It could be a moisture issue, perhaps you aren't letting the glue dry enough or are using too much water to dilute the PVA and the moisture is getting into the 1st layer causing it to bubble? You could also try quickening up your 1st few layers.
For the print bed I use glass + PVA glue (brushed on with a wet brush at 45°C) in 2 layers and allowed to dry completely. Blue painters (45°C as well) works good as well and leaves, at least in my opinion, a very cool surface texture on the bottom if you get the 1st layer height right. However, for longer print times it does pull the tape off the bed as the adhesion between the nylon and tape is stronger than the tape and the bed, so I just use PVA + glass as that works beautifully with no warping whatsoever. You have to be careful removing it though, I stick it in the freezer but you can still rip huge chunks off the print bed if you pull it off too fast. I have read that bumping the temp up to 70°C - 80°C after the print finishes or running it under warm water to remove works; however, I haven't tried either of these.
That is what works for me though so you may get different results.
For the print bed I use glass + PVA glue (brushed on with a wet brush at 45°C) in 2 layers and allowed to dry completely. Blue painters (45°C as well) works good as well and leaves, at least in my opinion, a very cool surface texture on the bottom if you get the 1st layer height right. However, for longer print times it does pull the tape off the bed as the adhesion between the nylon and tape is stronger than the tape and the bed, so I just use PVA + glass as that works beautifully with no warping whatsoever. You have to be careful removing it though, I stick it in the freezer but you can still rip huge chunks off the print bed if you pull it off too fast. I have read that bumping the temp up to 70°C - 80°C after the print finishes or running it under warm water to remove works; however, I haven't tried either of these.
Re: Taulman 910 Advice Needed
Hey all thanks for the replies. I've attached a pic of the bubbling I was having. After some communication with Tom at Taulman, we changed some settings and I am now getting a much better print. I settled on a 240 print temp with a 50 degree bed. The biggest change came when I switched to 75% infill down from 100%. Much smoother prints now with no burrs or fuzzies along edges. Also went to a .2 layer height instead of .1. Still a lot to learn.
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