I am looking for an FDM printer specifically for printing in POM. It will be used in an office setting by engineers for prototyping activities. We've got access to a machine shop, so some level of modification would be acceptable. I'm assuming a heated enclosure would be required.
Has anyone been successful at getting POM to print with an M2? If so, how did you do it?
Do you think the M2 would be a good unit for POM? If not, do you have another recomendation? The other one I'm considering right now is the Ultimaker 2+
Thank you
Printing in POM/Acetal/Delrin with the M2
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- Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2016 1:24 am
Re: Printing in POM/Acetal/Delrin with the M2
If your 2 choices are an M2 and an ultimaker, I would immediately choose the M2.
I have done some experimenting with POM, and its not a walk in the park to print with. It has refused to stick to glass, untreated MIC6 aluminum, and PEI so far. I had some success printing it on FR4 perfboard, but thats likely because of the mechanical bond with the holes. If you wanted to give it a go, I would try the perfboard but use a large raft. That said, I havent tried my buildtak sheet yet, or any adhesives.
please update this thread if you proceed with printing it and you figure out how to print it effectively.
I have done some experimenting with POM, and its not a walk in the park to print with. It has refused to stick to glass, untreated MIC6 aluminum, and PEI so far. I had some success printing it on FR4 perfboard, but thats likely because of the mechanical bond with the holes. If you wanted to give it a go, I would try the perfboard but use a large raft. That said, I havent tried my buildtak sheet yet, or any adhesives.
please update this thread if you proceed with printing it and you figure out how to print it effectively.
Re: Printing in POM/Acetal/Delrin with the M2
I already discussed POM here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1951&start=10#p30626
Re: Printing in POM/Acetal/Delrin with the M2
Print Settings/Process:
The hardest part about printing acetal is getting it to stick. A heated bed would probably help here. My best results come from printing on a wooden platform (birch ply) and a large raft with very thick lines. Temp of 258° seems good, although thin sections (<1mm) can get layer adhesion problems, so higher temps might work better. No fan, 30mm/s speed (much higher is probably possible). 0.1mm layers gives amazing detail. Acetal seems to hold heat very very well, which means that thick sections (>4mm) get messy, quickly. Parts that are designed as if they were to be injection molded (ie with uniform wall thicknesses) seem to print great.
Apart from first layer adhesion challenges, the only real problem with Acetal is that it (currently) only comes in 4' rods. The problem here isn't running out of filament - it's easy enough to feed them into the machine as necessary. The problem is that unless you fuse the rods together, it is impossible to use retraction once there is more than one filament section inside the machine. This makes prints with fine detail and many jumps more challenging.
i got that information form https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3646 ... -in-acetal
The hardest part about printing acetal is getting it to stick. A heated bed would probably help here. My best results come from printing on a wooden platform (birch ply) and a large raft with very thick lines. Temp of 258° seems good, although thin sections (<1mm) can get layer adhesion problems, so higher temps might work better. No fan, 30mm/s speed (much higher is probably possible). 0.1mm layers gives amazing detail. Acetal seems to hold heat very very well, which means that thick sections (>4mm) get messy, quickly. Parts that are designed as if they were to be injection molded (ie with uniform wall thicknesses) seem to print great.
Apart from first layer adhesion challenges, the only real problem with Acetal is that it (currently) only comes in 4' rods. The problem here isn't running out of filament - it's easy enough to feed them into the machine as necessary. The problem is that unless you fuse the rods together, it is impossible to use retraction once there is more than one filament section inside the machine. This makes prints with fine detail and many jumps more challenging.
i got that information form https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3646 ... -in-acetal
Re: Printing in POM/Acetal/Delrin with the M2
I think that might be a really bad idea. See here: http://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/ They recommend a maximum extrusion temperature of 230C and plenty of ventilation. They also recommend printing on wood and enclosing your printer. After talking to a Gizmo Dork, he also said it might be printed on an ABS or PLA raft. I have not yet set up my dual extruder, so I have not tried that, yet. He also said to try printing on a sheet of delrin, available from McMaster-Carr.NavyDT wrote:Print Settings/Process:
Temp of 258° seems good,...
My recommendations: My failed prints at 215C were delaminating, so I believe an extruder temp closer to 230C might help, plus enclosing the printer. Printing on an ABS slurry worked to a small degree, but there has to be something better.