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Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 12:23 am
I will second the statement that PETG doesn't come close in terms of durability. Recently, I 3D printed a MTB dropper post lever out of PETG (100% infill) and it snapped on the 1st hard impact (my knee!). For nylon I use Taulman 910 and on small prints I just use blue painters tape. If I have issues with that (blue painter's tape adhesion to the print bed isn't the best but the nylon adhesion to tape is great) I use bare glass cleaned with acetone and then I put PVA based glue on when the bed is at 45°C and brush it with a damp brush until it is smooth. I normally do 2 layers and let them dry and you can do 3 layers but you might have issues getting the print off and your z offset needs to be dialed in, I almost always do a .2 mm first layer. Also, to help with corners warping I use a 2 to 3 layer brim, 6-8 outlines, with a .05-.08 mm offset. Nozzle temp is 265°C, bed temp is 45°C, print speed 60 - 80 mm/sec. I tried garolite with varying success but that is what has worked for me, hope that helps.
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 5:03 am
rybrentd wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 12:23 am
For nylon I use Taulman 910 and on small prints I just use blue painters tape.
What has your experience been with the 910 thickness consistence? My first roll was way under and not very consistent. But I really like it a lot! I emailed them and they sent me a replacement roll! Have not had time to open it and give it a try.
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 5:49 am
I haven't had any issues so far (I'm on my second roll but I haven't taken the caliper to it), the side surfaces on prints are very smooth and pristine, and it is about as close to the feel and strength of injection molded parts that I have felt from a 3D printed part (granted I haven't tried every filament but I have used PLA, ABS, PETT, PETG, and various nylons - bridge, 645, 910, PCTPE).
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:22 pm
Yes, I printed a voltage adjuster for a Buck Regulator and was able to use .25 nozzle and create a tiny little screw diver and it is really holding up great.
I would guess most people just weak the extrusion multiplier.. but this guy ED I know.
Hi Ed! Taught me to enter the actually average diameter into the slicer which is used in the extrusion calculation. It actually works better then leaving it a 1.75 and adjusting the extrusion multiplier alone. I just got in the habit of checking and when I see something as thin as 1.62 I complain to the manufacture. I think the ability to print really small items without strings and with high strength is what like the best. I may have already posted this in this thread, forget what I did yesterday let alone last week but here is a picture of the adjuster for anyone who has not used 910 alloy
The box for the regulator and lid also made with 910 and the .25 nozzle
Found that the 910 is very slippery so added a knurl to the knob
And the completed project
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 12:35 am
airscapes wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:22 pm
Taught me to enter the actually average diameter into the slicer
My work here is finished … [grin]
Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 4:59 am
I have my first batch of production beds ready. They are within .005" flatness edge to edge on both sides. Plan on sending some directly to MG as I hope they stock them, they're simply the best for nylon. PM me if you want one, I expect the first batch of 50 to be gone quickly.
Posted: Tue May 21, 2019 2:52 am
I would like to purchase one, perhaps two of these Garolite beds. Wasn't able to send a private message, can you message me?
Posted: Tue May 21, 2019 2:45 pm
This bed did not really work for me any batter than glass and glue.. Maybe I didn't work at it long enough but Polymide tape works better for my non production environment. You also can't print anything that needs a hot bed (over 80) or the plate will warp.. Bed flatness is just in the stated tolerance, but that is inches not mm so considerably more variance than a glass bed. I would only buy one until you are sure it works for you.
Posted: Sat May 25, 2019 2:37 am
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback. I haven't tried this on my M3-ID, but have tried printing CarbonX Nylon and CarbonX PETG on a Lulzbot Taz 6 with an HS head and my issue is not adhesion but being able to remove the print from the bed. I literally have to start prying with a Swiss Army knife blade and it invariably slips not under the print but between the first and second layers. I was hoping for an easy solution.
Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:47 pm
Hi All, I have printed many Taulman nylons over the years, on several bed set-ups. My best results are with a piece of regular paper, glued to my glass plate using clear Elmer’s school glue. I squeegee a layer of glue on the glass, put the paper on the bed, and squeegee more glue on top. The paper wrinkles until the bed heat dries the glue and shrinks the paper. I adjust Z and print.
Adhesion is good this way and the parts are removed by prying the part, thus shearing the paper. Wet the paper on the part and the paper falls right off. Remove the glass and clean the old paper off in the sink.
I size my paper to the size of the part. The largest part done this way was 8” across- a lid for a Pyrex bowl.
I’ve had nylon tear up my glass it’s stuck so well. The paper is pretty reliable.
I print Bridge( most likely to warp), 910, and PCTPE this way reliably at normal speeds. 255c, .1 or .2 layer heights. 45c bed temp. Nylon is kept in a 80 degree cabinet. I rarely have moisture issues, but I live in Idaho, a dry place.
I tried the PEI surface and found it less reliable. Geckoflex as well.
For everything else I use Elmer’s all purpose white glue. It can applied in place. It’s easily cleaned and refreshed. And is super cheap. Work well with PLA and PETG, and flexables.