v4 Status

[insta]

The PTFE v4 has been working very reliably at 290C with polycarb. The intent, however, of the PTFE v4 is for lower temp materials like PLA.

The metal version is intended for higher temp materials. With only metal it is difficult to dump excess heat and PLA gets soft/sticky at low temps. We've been working on the metal version for a long time and it is working very reliably with all of the PLA we've tested as well as a range of other materials including ninjaflex, pet, polycarb, nylon and more. However, we need to get the final metal version in the field for a while to confirm our findings. We've been hiring engineers and we have a swiss lathe in the shop but it still takes a while to iterate through the variations (based on thermal models and testing).

I'm going to bend my metal one back straight again and use it for awhile. If anybody can find "wtf" ways to break production-ready parts, it's me.


(seriously I have a t-shirt and everything)

[benavery]

What is the sales pitch on the PTFE v4 ? I have the v3b that came on my M2, and have had zero problems with it (though admittedly only used PLA/ABS through it) so far. I'm always up for buying new gadgets, but haven't quite been able to understand what an upgrade will get me (at least for PTFE one - I get that a full-metal hotend will allow to reliably do high temp plastics)

[jimc]

not in all cases but all metal hot ends CAN be troublesome when it comes to pla. the ptfe liner avoids those issues. the v3b is a good hot end but the v4 and other hot ends like the e3dv6, etc are "next gen" so to speak. everyone is moving to very short hot zones because of the better and more precise control it gives you with the filament. i dont know how short the hot zone is exactly with the v4 but im sure its less than the v3b which had a long hot zone. when i switched from the v3b to the e3d i was able to cut all my ooze control settings in s3d in half. i imagine its going to be the same deal with the v4.

[sprior]

I like the split design of the V4, it has let me clear jams more easily by cutting the stuck filament between the nozzle and the extruder drive - considerably easier than the V3B. I have also been able to extrude NinjaFlex with the V4, something I never managed with the V3B. I did have problems with PLA jamming with the all metal V4 which I do not have with the PTFE V4.

I also think there is the possibility to use the split design of the V4 for easier Z adjustments. I have adjusted the Z stop screw as closely as I could, then raised the bed to Z=0, loosened the V4 nozzle and slipped a feeler gauge on top of the bed, let the nozzle rest on it, and tightened it in place. I'm not totally sure that technique is more accurate, but it seems more convenient if it is.

[Tim]

I also like the design of the V4 with the open split between the top of the hot-end and the extruder motor mount. It makes it easy (not "trivial", but "a lot easier than before") to pull apart the whole extruder when needed. The open-gap design also has the benefit of allowing the V4 to get a lot hotter without the heat traveling up to the extruder motor. Even with the PTFE lining, the V4 can reach temperatures that on the V3b would make the PEEK go soft. I like my V4. Although I am still waiting for a design that is truly trivial to swap in and out, without mucking about with the wiring.

[sprior]

I agree about the wiring, I don't like the idea of wire ties for stuff you take apart routinely. It took some wire arranging to get my dual working without cable ties and without those wires sticking out and hitting the Z knob.

[kyphur]

You can buy automotive wire holders that snap. Similar to these:

[Tim]

You can buy automotive wire holders that snap

But even wire holders are too much hassle. Because the V4 extruder inserts vertically into the base plate from underneath, what I'd like to see is the four wires for the hot end terminating in four header pins that will insert vertically into a socket (plastic parts would be out of the question, especially near the heating block---would have to be ceramic, I suppose). That way, swapping out one hot-end for another would be a matter of loosening the set screw, pulling the hot end out, putting the new one in, homing the Z axis, and tightening the set screw. Can't be made too much simpler than that.

[kyphur]

Ah, I have yet to see the V4 and still consider myself a n00b on a lot of levels with 3D printing.

[sprior]

Once I "trained" them, the wires stay put and out of the way for me without any holders required.