How do I print a circular part?
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 6:46 am
Just received my M3-ID Dec 23rd. It has been running PLA nonstop since I got it. I purchased it because I could run the parts I sell at twice the speed using the duplication mode. This is my second printer, my first being a seemecnc rostock max V1. I have many hours on it, but it has it's issues and being a kit I figured if I bought a prebuilt printer I would have better luck with printing multiple parts.
The ID prints everything perfect... except for circular parts... what am I doing wrong?? I have read every post I could find about vertical z scar, coast, wipe, retraction... etc....
I have the stock .35 nozzle, tried .2 layers, .25 layers, default speeds, 30mms, wipe, no wipe, 1 to 5mm retract, 0 to -1 extra on restart, 220 to 245C with makergear, IC3d ABS, no retract, coast, no coast.... I can't figure it out... Only using S3D. Have not tried any other slicer as I am not sure what will work with the ID without having to input settings.
Funny part is I could never get the rostock to print PLA, now I cannot get the ID to print ABS, I have built an enclosure, it is half assed but keeps the heat in and the breezes out.
My part is 4 inches tall with a 2mm wall, .55o diameter. Tried a bunch of different thinwall settings. I have resorted back to using the rostock printing one part at a time..... mainly because the heated bed on the rostock is so warped it is hard to print more than one part at a time on it, and instead of spending the money to upgrade it I figured I would just get a new ID.
If I could get nice parts with a positive z scar or vertical line I would be O...K.. with that. I could always sand or file them down and then ship them. But I am getting what looks like under extrusion or missing filament at the end of my layers with no coast and no extra on restart. Or with coast and extra on restart.
Is there some way to make the nozzle extrude past the start so the layers run into each other? Or past each other?
Both printers are using the same STL file, different slicers, right now I am a little worried I spent the money on the ID when I cannot get any better circular prints than with my 10 year old kit built delta printer that I have beat on for many, many hours.... I do not print trinkets, I only print parts that I sell, and they are all made from abs.
Please help me.
The ID prints everything perfect... except for circular parts... what am I doing wrong?? I have read every post I could find about vertical z scar, coast, wipe, retraction... etc....
I have the stock .35 nozzle, tried .2 layers, .25 layers, default speeds, 30mms, wipe, no wipe, 1 to 5mm retract, 0 to -1 extra on restart, 220 to 245C with makergear, IC3d ABS, no retract, coast, no coast.... I can't figure it out... Only using S3D. Have not tried any other slicer as I am not sure what will work with the ID without having to input settings.
Funny part is I could never get the rostock to print PLA, now I cannot get the ID to print ABS, I have built an enclosure, it is half assed but keeps the heat in and the breezes out.
My part is 4 inches tall with a 2mm wall, .55o diameter. Tried a bunch of different thinwall settings. I have resorted back to using the rostock printing one part at a time..... mainly because the heated bed on the rostock is so warped it is hard to print more than one part at a time on it, and instead of spending the money to upgrade it I figured I would just get a new ID.
If I could get nice parts with a positive z scar or vertical line I would be O...K.. with that. I could always sand or file them down and then ship them. But I am getting what looks like under extrusion or missing filament at the end of my layers with no coast and no extra on restart. Or with coast and extra on restart.
Is there some way to make the nozzle extrude past the start so the layers run into each other? Or past each other?
Both printers are using the same STL file, different slicers, right now I am a little worried I spent the money on the ID when I cannot get any better circular prints than with my 10 year old kit built delta printer that I have beat on for many, many hours.... I do not print trinkets, I only print parts that I sell, and they are all made from abs.
Please help me.