Kickstarter build plate

[jsc]

That's an intriguing idea, but I lack any manner of tools to cut spring steel to size. Can it be done with, say, a Dremel? Do you have to do anything to inhibit rust on the cut edge?

[markb]

How well does it handle ABS?

Guys,

For the adventurous ones that have an air cutoff tool, I have a suggestion. I like Buildtak, but things sometimes stick to it so well that it's sometimes hard to get them off of it. I've destroyed several sheets of the stuff when a print stuck so well that I ended up having to remove the Buildtak from the glass plate to get it off. I saw this kickstarter and gave some thought to what they're doing and a light bulb went off. What if I ordered a sheet of 1095 blue spring steel, cut it to size, and then applied a sheet of Buildtak to it. Clip it to the HBP, print, then remove it. Just flex to pop your parts off.

Well, I tried it and I'd be hard pressed to ever go back. You get super strong first layer adhesion, but still have a way to remove the parts when you're done. There is also an added benefit. I have three of these "build pallets" now. When one print finishes, you just pop a new pallet on and hit the print button again. No more waiting for a glass build plate to cool so that you can remove the current parts before starting the next build. The thickness of the steel and the Buildtak are both spot on, so the plates are interchangeable without mucking around to re-do bed leveling. For those worried about the steel warping due to heat, rest assured that the HBP temps aren't anywhere near high enough to cause that in 1095.

Wear resistant 1095 spring steel. .025" thick.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3699/=u2f51t

Don't bother attempting shears or saws, you'll need to cut it with an abrasive disc cutter, like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-high- ... 60374.html

I have about 40 prints or so on each plate and the Buildtak is still going strong because it has never seen any kind of spatula or scraper. Just flex the plate and pull the parts right off. I give the surface a wipe with alcohol between prints just to remove any possible residues left behind from the previous print. If the buildtak ever does wear out or something bad happens to it, just peel it off slowly and slap on a new piece.

I'll never go back to glass...

No, I'm not affiliated with the folks that make Buildtak. They'll probably hate me for posting this because using it in this manner seriously extends the useful life of a sheet.

[sprior]

Since I hadn't gotten around to trying my Buildtak yet I just ordered the steel from McMaster and I'll give that a try. Only have one though.

[jimc]

i just ordered a 5 pack and piece of the spring steel big enough to get 2 plates out of.

jin, i guess you could use a dremel but your going to need a bunch of the cutoff wheels. its not exactly the ideal tool for the job.

[markb]

i just ordered a 5 pack and piece of the spring steel big enough to get 2 plates out of.

jin, i guess you could use a dremel but your going to need a bunch of the cutoff wheels. its not exactly the ideal tool for the job.

What one did you order?

[jimc]

the steel you posted from mcmaster. i have actually already been putting an order together for a couple days now so i just added it. the buildtak was the 8x10 for the m2. i saw them at makerfaire and they had the m2 sitting there with one on it.

[markb]

I just quoted the post. dpersuhn posted it.

Did you order this one?
9075K275
Blue-Finished and Polished 1095 Spring Steel, .025" Thick, 8" Width x 2' Length Sheet
I have a 8X10 sheet of buildtak here.

[jimc]

i got 9043k24

[sprior]

I got 9043k12 from the top section (annealed, unpolished) - hope that was what dpersuhn was referring to.

[jimc]

your fine with that