Using ABS
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Using ABS
After doing OK with M2 in PLA, moved to ABS.
Put down the tricky Kapton tape.
Hit extrude 100 twice in the S3d program with temp set on the machine control panel to 250, (started
at 235 as recommend) and the ABS red purchased from Makergear came out as curly Qs. Moved temp higher, but
the M2 clogs up when beginning the print in ABS. Note: on the extrude setting it comes out OK part of the time.
Made several models in PLA and none of these issues came up . I know I'm missing
something and that's why I'm here asking for help.
Put down the tricky Kapton tape.
Hit extrude 100 twice in the S3d program with temp set on the machine control panel to 250, (started
at 235 as recommend) and the ABS red purchased from Makergear came out as curly Qs. Moved temp higher, but
the M2 clogs up when beginning the print in ABS. Note: on the extrude setting it comes out OK part of the time.
Made several models in PLA and none of these issues came up . I know I'm missing
something and that's why I'm here asking for help.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: Using ABS
I don't want to claim too much knowledge about printing in ABS because the closest I have come is printing in PET+ (which is somewhat similar in temperature and consistency). But 235 was much too low for the ABS---the typical temperature is 230, and the V3b hot end needs an extra 20 added to that, so you need 250. Which is what you ended up with. But by that time, you may have clogged up the extruder trying to print ABS while it was not hot enough. It's probably worth pulling out the ABS, pulling the hot end out, and looking down the barrel to see if it is clear or not. In the worst case, you might try soaking the nozzle in acetone overnight.
Re: Using ABS
sometimes is will come out curly just from a little crusty junk that builds up on the nozzle. just try cleaning that up first. just a soft wire brush on the nozzle can clean up the black stuff then a quick wipe with some acetone on a rag. do that and see what happens. i usually run my abs at 245. also make sure your no printing too close to the build plate or it will clog up as well. its like putting your thumb over a garden hose.
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: Using ABS
Looked at the gear that feeds, it slips, but works fine with the black PLA purchased from Makergear.
It's the red material that don't work, hot end is clear. Tried up to 260.
I can purge and extrude the red ABS, if I hit purge again, no-go. The gear turns but the ABS red slips.
This is with the hot end staying at 250 or above. Teeth on gear are close to new, with only a 1/2 spool of PLA
being run thru this machine/
It's a lot easier and comes to mind first, I...me the user is at fault, when the material does not perform.
Checked thickness, both at 1.75mm.
Went back to PLA to make some parts, but I must print in ABS for the test parts my company needs.
Open to any suggestions ...because I'm a raw newbie that's had some success by building an extended spool holder,
tool holder for my M2, along with other trinkets for learning the software and printer.
It's the red material that don't work, hot end is clear. Tried up to 260.
I can purge and extrude the red ABS, if I hit purge again, no-go. The gear turns but the ABS red slips.
This is with the hot end staying at 250 or above. Teeth on gear are close to new, with only a 1/2 spool of PLA
being run thru this machine/
It's a lot easier and comes to mind first, I...me the user is at fault, when the material does not perform.
Checked thickness, both at 1.75mm.
Went back to PLA to make some parts, but I must print in ABS for the test parts my company needs.
Open to any suggestions ...because I'm a raw newbie that's had some success by building an extended spool holder,
tool holder for my M2, along with other trinkets for learning the software and printer.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: Using ABS
Have you tried adjusting the tension on the filament guide?
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: Using ABS
Part of the problem was the set screw holding the gear to feed the filament.
That's fixed, now I cannot get my machine to print at 250 as the machine control panel with the emergency stop button.
Goes to to 250, then drops to 230 and starts printing.
230 is too low for abs.
In the FFF settings under the temperature tab for the extruder, I have that set at 250.
Says 1st layer 200C, this I cannot change, in the heated bed, or extruder settings.
Need some help with the configuration setting in S3D, cause not matter I do it prints at 230.
Even tried opening and closing the program.
To LonV:
Clamp is tightened together and machine feeds fine now that pinion gear turns.
That's fixed, now I cannot get my machine to print at 250 as the machine control panel with the emergency stop button.
Goes to to 250, then drops to 230 and starts printing.
230 is too low for abs.
In the FFF settings under the temperature tab for the extruder, I have that set at 250.
Says 1st layer 200C, this I cannot change, in the heated bed, or extruder settings.
Need some help with the configuration setting in S3D, cause not matter I do it prints at 230.
Even tried opening and closing the program.
To LonV:
Clamp is tightened together and machine feeds fine now that pinion gear turns.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: Using ABS
Those 1st layer settings need to be removed. They can be changed. You need to delete them and add your new temp setting. If you have a first layer set to 200 then this is why your seeing a temp drop.
Re: Using ABS
In the temperature settings in S3D, where there is a list of setpoints, you can double-click on a setpoint to change it. So where it says layer 1 / 200C, double-click the 200 and type in 250 and hit enter.jimc wrote:Those 1st layer settings need to be removed. They can be changed. You need to delete them and add your new temp setting. If you have a first layer set to 200 then this is why your seeing a temp drop.
Dale
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: Using ABS
Reset M2 settings by deleting all old S3D configs, have first layer temp now at 250.
This might work, but after messing with the printer and software all day, next try will be tomorrow.
Loose set screw on filament drive gear really set me back. Looks like progress.
Smallest allen hex wrench in the tool kit allowed me to fix this issue.
Extrude/purge works every time.
Wished I have bought a kit now to provide better understanding of the M2.
This might work, but after messing with the printer and software all day, next try will be tomorrow.
Loose set screw on filament drive gear really set me back. Looks like progress.
Smallest allen hex wrench in the tool kit allowed me to fix this issue.
Extrude/purge works every time.
Wished I have bought a kit now to provide better understanding of the M2.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: Using ABS
I'll have to review the replies, but don't see admin from Makergear stepping in to help.
This is not what the Amazon reviews said. Instead, help is provided by fellow members with the
best intentions to help others. For this I thank all who offered their help to me.
In the S3D program FFF settings under scripts there's a bugaboo.
M108 S255 ; turn on M2 fans (this was M108 S155 until I changed it) for the number 3b hot end.
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Y50 Z0.3 F9600 ; move forward to avoid binder clips
G1 X205 Z10 ; move off platform
G1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E25 F250 ; purge nozzle <------- this was set low at F225, moved it to F250, shouldn't it be C250?
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 X190 Z0.1 E1.0 F1200 ; slow wipe
G1 X180 Z0.25 ; lift
Thanks for your help beforehand
This is not what the Amazon reviews said. Instead, help is provided by fellow members with the
best intentions to help others. For this I thank all who offered their help to me.
In the S3D program FFF settings under scripts there's a bugaboo.
M108 S255 ; turn on M2 fans (this was M108 S155 until I changed it) for the number 3b hot end.
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Y50 Z0.3 F9600 ; move forward to avoid binder clips
G1 X205 Z10 ; move off platform
G1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E25 F250 ; purge nozzle <------- this was set low at F225, moved it to F250, shouldn't it be C250?
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 X190 Z0.1 E1.0 F1200 ; slow wipe
G1 X180 Z0.25 ; lift
Thanks for your help beforehand
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com