Creating 3D QR codes
Creating 3D QR codes
I am trying to find a way to create a .stl for a QR code I have in .png and .jpg. I have tried a few different methods including this- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46884 where I get an issue with the data outputs. Have any of you successfully created a 3D print of a QR code and how did you manage to do this?
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
Well, an absolutely accurate 2D to 3D extrusion of a QR code would not be manifold. But, if you are using Simplify3D, my first inclination would be to try to throw it at the Image to Model tool embedded in there. Maybe the image smoothing it uses would get around the manifold issue. I will check for you later.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
Okay, so it worked. This is just a proof of concept, I made it rather oversized. I just used the Image to 3D tool built into SImplify3D.
That thingiverse file has some ideas for how to get one that doesn't require a backlight: coloring in the top layer, using different filaments, reversing it and inlaying into the valleys... once dual extrusion is here, you can just print it out in two colors.
Which reminds me, I was playing around with filament welding a while ago; that is, welding two pieces of filament together. I printed a jig in PLA and attempted to stick two pieces of ABS together using acetone. Never did get it to work. There were problems getting it to separate from the jig, and the joint wasn't all that strong, and it was just all in all a very fiddly process. What I'd want is a 1.75mm inner diameter brass tube cut in half lengthwise, which I could clamp around two pieces of filament and heat externally. Sadly, I lack all tools for doing something like that. If anyone on here does have the skills and tools required, it would be interesting to see if it could be made to work.
What you would then do is measure off the length of filament needed for the base plate (easily calculated from a slicer) and join it to the spool of filament you would be using for the top layers. You can achieve the same effect by pausing the print and swapping spools, but it would be maybe less fussy to do it this way.
- qrcode.jpg (78.94 KiB) Viewed 13397 times
Which reminds me, I was playing around with filament welding a while ago; that is, welding two pieces of filament together. I printed a jig in PLA and attempted to stick two pieces of ABS together using acetone. Never did get it to work. There were problems getting it to separate from the jig, and the joint wasn't all that strong, and it was just all in all a very fiddly process. What I'd want is a 1.75mm inner diameter brass tube cut in half lengthwise, which I could clamp around two pieces of filament and heat externally. Sadly, I lack all tools for doing something like that. If anyone on here does have the skills and tools required, it would be interesting to see if it could be made to work.
What you would then do is measure off the length of filament needed for the base plate (easily calculated from a slicer) and join it to the spool of filament you would be using for the top layers. You can achieve the same effect by pausing the print and swapping spools, but it would be maybe less fussy to do it this way.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
What material did you print that on? It looks pretty good. Thanks for your help!
My only concern about trying to print in two colours by pausing the print is retracting and then re-extruding the new colour. My worry is how tricky it is to get right to the point you can start the print again without creating any gaps or over extrusion blobs.
My only concern about trying to print in two colours by pausing the print is retracting and then re-extruding the new colour. My worry is how tricky it is to get right to the point you can start the print again without creating any gaps or over extrusion blobs.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
White ABS, but I think it hardly matters, just something that is translucent enough for the backlighting to show through.
In Simplify3D, you can pause the print, then immediately retract and raise the extruder, quickly switch filament, prime the extruder, reset the extruder, and when you unpause the print it should go right back to where it left off. I set up a macro to do the retraction and lift, but haven't tried the whole filament change routine yet. Remember that there is a motor timeout, so either jog a motor every few minutes, or up that timeout.
Many hosts take a command like "@pause" in the g-code to pause the print, as if the pause button were pushed. I have looked for something like that in Simplify3D, but could only find other people looking for the same thing.
In Simplify3D, you can pause the print, then immediately retract and raise the extruder, quickly switch filament, prime the extruder, reset the extruder, and when you unpause the print it should go right back to where it left off. I set up a macro to do the retraction and lift, but haven't tried the whole filament change routine yet. Remember that there is a motor timeout, so either jog a motor every few minutes, or up that timeout.
Many hosts take a command like "@pause" in the g-code to pause the print, as if the pause button were pushed. I have looked for something like that in Simplify3D, but could only find other people looking for the same thing.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
I just tried to get something to work by taking a small section of 3/4" PVC, filling it with plaster, closing off the ends, and threading some filament through it while the plaster was still liquid. When the plaster set, I pushed it out of the PVC and pulled the filament out without any problem. The hole should be accurate, and plaster can take heat, but when I put two pieces of filament in and heated it up on my stove I couldn't stop the PLA from melting where it exited the plaster.jsc wrote: What I'd want is a 1.75mm inner diameter brass tube cut in half lengthwise, which I could clamp around two pieces of filament and heat externally. Sadly, I lack all tools for doing something like that. If anyone on here does have the skills and tools required, it would be interesting to see if it could be made to work.
I can't see a way to direct the heat only where I want it to go in the middle of the plaster.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
I think a stove would be far too much heat over too wide an area. I would try a lighter, or maybe a torch.
But there's another problem. Have you considered, once you've successfully joined two long pieces of filament in the middle, how you're going to get your jig off?
But there's another problem. Have you considered, once you've successfully joined two long pieces of filament in the middle, how you're going to get your jig off?
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
The idea was that the melted plastic would cool and not stick to the plaster, so it could be pulled out the same way the threaded filament was pulled out of the initial cast. I did a quick test by joining two strands of PLA with a match on top of a piece of plaster. It didn't show a tendency to stick so at least there's hope.jsc wrote: But there's another problem. Have you considered, once you've successfully joined two long pieces of filament in the middle, how you're going to get your jig off?
Edit: Oh I get it now. You mean if you had a large amount of filament on either side of the join, you aren't going to want to pull it through. Good point. You could consider each plaster cast as a throw-away and just break it with a hammer. They're easy enough to construct that you could make a dozen at a time.
I am seeing a problem where inserting the filament into the plaster can gouge it here and there. That would ruin the diameter if it happened where the melting occurred.
I don't have a torch, but I might look around for one and experiment some more with this.
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
What if you are joining several meter lengths? Will you then have to feed the entirety of one side of the join through the jig to get it off the end?
Re: Creating 3D QR codes
Yeah, I caught that problem after I posted and edited the post. I thought I was quick enough, but you must have read the pre-edited post.
Best work-around I could come up with is to regard the mold as disposable and break it with a hammer. Not the greatest solution but they're easy to make so you could make a dozen at a time.
Of course this is all moot until the method is proven to work at all.
Best work-around I could come up with is to regard the mold as disposable and break it with a hammer. Not the greatest solution but they're easy to make so you could make a dozen at a time.
Of course this is all moot until the method is proven to work at all.