Materials printed on M2

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 7:02 pm

Tim its definately opaque. No translucent in it at all. I have confirmed that temp does change the color....a little. This is actually darker in the pic as i printed at 220. I printed some other tiny tests with what i had here. I went down to 190 and it actually printed better. The result was lighter and had a little more texture to it but the texture still wasnt layer lines which is nice. I dont know how but it really hides those. The esun wood or atleast this sample i have is a light wood like pine. Its very white as a filament. The final production stuff may be different. I dont know.

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:01 am

hybridprinter wrote:Is there a list of most all the main flexible filaments with properties? Looking for something still very flexible and rubber-ish but maybe a little less ozzy/stringy than Ninjaflex.

The latest "Make" magazine has a short article on flexible filaments in which they do stretch and compression tests on four different flexible filament types (NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FilaFlex, and one other which I don't recall at the moment). Not as wide a variety as I would like, but a reasonably good comparison. It looks like only FilaFlex is a match for NinjaFlex, and all the rest (including other brands I've seen, like eSUN and PolyMakr) would fall into the category of "semi-flexible".

Both E3D's and Recreus' (makers of FilaFlex) websites have good discussions on what makes an extruder flexible-filament-friendly. It looks like it's a really critical idea to get a piece of PTFE tubing to span the distance from the hot end to the motor gear, right up to the point where it's practically brushing the gear teeth, leaving no room for the filament to go anywhere except down.

(Edited---the 4th filament tested was Zen Toolworks)

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:06 am

jimc wrote:i used my esun wood filament sample to do a test print to see how it worked out...

And, speaking of the eSUN wood filament. . . I noticed that the wood filament is back up on the intservo website, where it looks like William is trying to put together another deal similar to the PETg shipment:

Wood filament is just released from research team after many months of research and adjustment. It will be on market here in January. Please email us admin@intservo.com if interested. We will need to collect interest and air lift some here in January.

URL: http://www.intservo.com/products/esun-w ... =908119203

I'm certainly interested, so anybody else who is, be sure to contact William at Intservo.

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:14 am

yeah ill pick up a spool.

jeffpowell101 · Post by **jeffpowell101** » Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:45 am

I have my printer built and running and would like to try out this bridge material. Can someone with experience tell me the settings I should use? Thanks.

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Mon Jan 19, 2015 3:11 am

jeff, i am running bridge at 265 with an 80deg bed and it needs to be printed slow...2400mm/min. i would not print that high on a v3b extruder if thats what you have. for that drop the temp to 250-255. its about maxed out there. bridge still seems to warp as much as any other nylon but it does stick to the bed better than 618 or the others. ooze control settings if your using s3d will be about the same as with abs.

jeffpowell101 · Post by **jeffpowell101** » Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:30 am

Jim,

what extruder are you using?

I am using Simplify3D but have not gotten to ABS yet as i'm waiting for an enclosure to come in.

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:42 am

i have an e3dv6. yours being a new machine should have been shipped with a v3b. that is good for 255. no higher. bridge should work fine at that temp. the biggest thing i found was that bridge does not print fast. the extruder drive gear doesnt cut into and grab like other mateirals so if you feed to fast it will just spin on the filament. bridge melts at a relatively low temp but it melts slowly. it actually might do better in the v3b because it will be in contact with heat for a longer period than on my e3d.

for abs, that is something i have printed tons of. all with no enclosure. its not really needed but im sure it will help a little. any way you look at it though abs will warp unless you get the enclosure temp up in the 70c range and your not going to do that without frying something. i just said screw the whole thing and starting using petg. i am down to my last spool of abs here and now up to 17 spools of petg. no warp, no enclosure, no smell and stronger than abs.

jeffpowell101 · Post by **jeffpowell101** » Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:35 am

Thanks Jim. I've never heard of PTEG, where do you buy it?

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:43 am

oh you have joined probably one of most petg friendly forums on the net lol. alot of the guys here have atleast one spool. until now it has been really expensive but price has come down alot and in the abs range. colorfabb xt is a petg, esun makes it which most of us get from william over at intservo.com. he did a fantastic group buy for us recently. send him an email from his website and i think he will give you a 10% off coupon code. tell him your from the makergear forum. madesolid has pet+ which is good. reprappertech.com has it which i am testing now. some other chinese company called winbo has it and that was good stuff too. intservo is the preferred supplier at the moment. no opaque colors yet though. look through the filament section of the forum. you will see a bunch of topics on it

Materials printed on M2

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