Part Pulled Chip Out of Glass

[pyronaught]

The only kapton I could find on McMaster at the 25mil thickness was prohibitively expensive at $252 for a 13"x23" sheet, and it doesn't have an adhesive backing so you'd have to figure out how to stick it to the bed in a removable way. That's just crazy expensive though, it's hard to believe people would pay over $84 each time to resurface their bed as opposed to $2.25 for something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Addicore-Kapton-P ... W472KQX1SX

You could buy 37 sheets of the standard 2mil for the price of just one of those 25mil sheets!

[jimc]

na i think what they were using was about $35-50 per sheet. i dont remember the exact thickness but it was way more than 2mil. i havent looked it up in a long time.

[pyronaught]

The $36 sheets that are adhesive backed are 5 mil. I don't see anything else in between 5 and 20 mil

http://www.mcmaster.com/#=vzcy5v

[jdacal]

Here's the tools that have been working pretty good for me, at least with PLA and ABS. I use Purple Elmer's stick so these may not be good to use with tape, would probably scrape it.

The one on the left is my favorite. Found it on an online hobby shop but I can't remember the name will have to try to see if I can find the receipt. I use the razor knife to open up a gap then I insert the long skinny spatula and just push it in as far as it will go, move it side to side, then push it in some more, and so on and so on.

I've only had a couple that wouldn't budge at all. By the way, this is after I've broken two glass sheets since I got the printer, but haven't had any problems since I started using these. Anyway, like I was saying... I've only had a couple that wouldn't budge at all. On those I use the freeze spray used to troubleshoot electronics. I don't blast it on to the glass but just gradually spray the whole glass, wait a little spray some more and as the glass starts to contract the piece will usually just pop off. Other option is throw it in the freezer which I've never done, but same thing.

EDIT: Most important thing is always let the part cool down completely, hot parts not likely to come off easily.

The left one is my favorite as its almost paper thin. The one on the right was recommended by someone on this forum and works great, but its kind of short.

2015-02-19 23.09.05.jpg (126.83 KiB) Viewed 8982 times

[Capt. John]

Flip the glass plate over. Put in a freezer to get prints to pop off super easy.
Prying, or freezing? Freezing is a lot easier.

[pyronaught]

With the purple glue stick method the parts should just pop off on their own when they cool to room temp. I've never had to pry a part off of glue stick unless I was in a rush and didn't feel like waiting for the plate to fully cool down. Of course that popping off the plate feature is what put a chip in my glass and started this thread to begin with.

[pyronaught]

I did a part with lots of contact area today and of course it was a beeyotch getting it off the bed. No amount of side pounding with a blunt object would knock it loose, but the corner-pry method worked. It was stuck so hard it actually started to pull the tape up with it, which created some wrinkles in the tape. I'm hoping the wrinkles will iron out once the bed is heated up again.

I wonder if lowering the bed temp would reduce how much it sticks? I'm running it at 90 currently.

[dklassen]

This is the Kapton I use on my M2. Nice and thick, super easy to put on. I mostly print PLA but heat the bed to 65c and after just a little cool down the part just pops right off. Never have an adhesion problem either, I print on the bare Kapton tape. I ordered 5 sheets and after 4 months of printing I'm still using the first sheet.

http://www.eckertech.com/kapton-tape-10x9-sheet/

[pyronaught]

This is the Kapton I use on my M2. Nice and thick, super easy to put on. I mostly print PLA but heat the bed to 65c and after just a little cool down the part just pops right off. Never have an adhesion problem either, I print on the bare Kapton tape. I ordered 5 sheets and after 4 months of printing I'm still using the first sheet.

http://www.eckertech.com/kapton-tape-8-x-10-sheet/

Are the sheets actually 8" x 10" or is it 8" x 9"? The website gives conflicting dimensions.

I tried applying one of the 2 mil full size sheets according to the mfg directions and it went down with no air bubbles, but then formed wrinkles when heated up. I removed it and reapplied using the soapy water method and then it worked good. So I guess air bubbles aren't the only application problem, apparently inconsistent distribution of tension can cause the tape to wrinkle once heated.

[dklassen]

Mine was actually the 9x10 and I cut it down a little.