Hardened steel nozzle

[Jules]

Just ordered a regular V4 nozzle and asked for the steel in the notes. (Cause heck yeah, i want one too. Didn't know they had them available either.)

I'll let you know if that works!

FYI, don't use the steel one unless you need it. Brass is a better material all around for printing.

Oh yeah, i hear you....I'm not going to change it out unless i get some metals. (just like to have one on hand....in case i need it)

[rpollack]

We've been quite pleased with the steel nozzles and may just switch to using steel rather than brass...

Website is being redone...just taking way too long to get it finished.

[pcenginefx]

Just ordered a regular V4 nozzle and asked for the steel in the notes. (Cause heck yeah, i want one too. Didn't know they had them available either.)

I'll let you know if that works!

Thank you! I would have never thought to do it that way. Is it just me, or does the makergear website need some serious reorganizing? I mean there is a listing for hotends but the v4 hotend is listed under the m2s. There is a listing for nozzles but the v4 nozzle is listed under upgrades.

I too have a big issue with the website....this is one area that MakerGear REALLY needs to get on top of. In this day in age, there really is no excuse to not have a nice modern looking site. It's unfortunate that MakerGear's website is a big step back from MakerBot & LulzBot in design & presentation for such a great printer. I hope there are plans to hire a web designer or something to remake the site because first impressions count!

Another problem I have is that one has to literally dig deep into the forums to find all of these little mods and upgrades for the M2. This is also a major problem - a new/existing customer can't be expected to search the forums for the upgrades - again, this is where the website needs to be better about. I just bought he v4 extruder, but the website has no info on how or why the v4 is better, nor any info on if I need to modify any temps or settings (unless I'm missing this info somewhere??) This is also the first time I'm hearing about a steel nozzle (?!) but I discovered this thread by accident....not the ideal way to find out about these things

[Vandal968]

Testify!

After several months the only bad thing I've found about MakerGear is the website. Everything else is top-notch. Oh yeah, and the factory fan-guards suck (very noisy, replaced mine with standard wire ones from ebay), but that's it.

RE: the v4 nozzle temps. It should be the final sentence in the upgrade instructions, but it's not. I installed my v4 a few days ago and was looking for the exact same info, couldn't find it. I know I've seen it before and it wasn't a huge difference (5 deg IIRC but I can't remember if up or down), I think I might have seen it in the docs for using the open-source toolchain (can't remember). After 5 minutes of unsuccessful searching, I just printed with my v3b settings and it worked fine.

cheers,
c

[Vandal968]

Found it! It was in the opensource toolchain instructions:
http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-getting-started#toc4

<snip>
If your M2 has a V3b hot-end, use 215C for the PLA included with your machine. If you have a V3 hot-end you should use 195C for PLA. The V4 hotend can use v3b settings, but hotter may be needed at higher speeds.

If you have already installed the filament spool holder, filament guide arm, filament guide tube and the spool of filament itself, you can now perform your first test extrude. Feed the filament up through the hole in the filament guide arm, through the filament guide tube, and over to the filament drive. If the end of your filament has any bends or kinks in it, cut the first several inches off, preferably at a sharp angle. Feed the filament into the hole in the top of the filament drive, return to Pronterface, and set your nozzle temperature if you have not already. For the V3 style hotend, 195*C is good for PLA; V3b style uses 215*C for PLA. Then click Extrude. The extruder drive gear should move and grab the filament. Press Extrude two or three more times; if the filament continues to feed smoothly, click Extrude 5-10 times; continue until filament starts to come out of the nozzle smoothly.
<snip>

So, same as v3b, or possibly higher....

cheers,
c

[Jules]

Nope. 215 is too high for PLA with a V4. You'll get best results with the 200-205 degree range. (Experience.)

[Vandal968]

I've been seeing very nice results with 215, but I'll try that lower temp on my next print and see what happens. Thanks.

cheers,
c

[Pekish79]

depend from the filament most of the wood pla start to have string at 215 too hot
wood pla work best between 195-205



u can always print the double tower with temperature 180-240 to see which one is best

i use 2 tower one is the double tower and the other is the overhang tower (but in that case i jump up and down with temperature i dont scale gradually just to jazz it up)



(this particular wood filament is terrible at every temp but the overhang slightly better at 190-195)

i saved the Gcode in octoprint and everytime there is a new filament i print directly the gcode i use a size 1.73 it's not always the most accurate but the all range between 1.71 to 1.74

[Vandal968]

Very Nice. Where can I get that calibration column?

cheers,
c

[Pekish79]

you want the gcode with already set the temperature at the right layer or the STL and u work out your FFF