M2 vs Shapeways?
M2 vs Shapeways?
I thought I posted this, I guess I hit the wrong button or something.
Anyone switched to the M2 from getting their prints from Shapeways? I'm printing small people figures, about 2 to 3 inches tall in Shapeways 'white strong and flexible', ie the lowest price and resolution.
While they are ok, the face detail could be better.
Nevertheless, I was wondering if I could get the same results (or better) in terms of resolution/detail from an M2 ?
Thanks
Anyone switched to the M2 from getting their prints from Shapeways? I'm printing small people figures, about 2 to 3 inches tall in Shapeways 'white strong and flexible', ie the lowest price and resolution.
While they are ok, the face detail could be better.
Nevertheless, I was wondering if I could get the same results (or better) in terms of resolution/detail from an M2 ?
Thanks
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
You can get extremely fine detail from an M2 with a 0.25 mm nozzle and slow print speeds, but without seeing the Shapeways offerings, it's kind of hard to tell which one is better.
- Matt_Sharkey
- Posts: 347
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:10 pm
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
If you post the models that you are interested in printing here I'm sure some people may give it a shot and at least post pics of the result, then you can determine yourself.
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
Shapeways' "strong & flexible" is .1mm resolution in all 3 axises. Their frosted acrylic is even higher, about .025mm in all axises.
The M2 can easily compete on price-per-print, but unfortunately in this case not resolution. I can beat Shapeways' Z resolution with my dedicated high-precision machine, but it's super fickle and produces very brittle parts.
The M2 can easily compete on price-per-print, but unfortunately in this case not resolution. I can beat Shapeways' Z resolution with my dedicated high-precision machine, but it's super fickle and produces very brittle parts.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. here are a few shots- first one is the basic white strong and flexible
This one is the ultra-
If I could get to the res in the first that would be ok.
I've never actually used a 3D printer, (although I do have a 3D router). I just have had various services print them.
This one is the ultra-
If I could get to the res in the first that would be ok.
I've never actually used a 3D printer, (although I do have a 3D router). I just have had various services print them.
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
We need a US coin of some sort near those prints to determine how good or bad they turned out.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
Hmm. How about a pencil?
1:20 scale, 1:24, and 1:29. 1:29 is about 2.25 inches (more or less) tall. He's also frosted ultra. The blue guy with the tablet in the previous post is the same size.
I have source files online too in stl format if that helps-
http://martinsant.net/3dprint/
Thanks for looking- I appreciate it.
1:20 scale, 1:24, and 1:29. 1:29 is about 2.25 inches (more or less) tall. He's also frosted ultra. The blue guy with the tablet in the previous post is the same size.
I have source files online too in stl format if that helps-
http://martinsant.net/3dprint/
Thanks for looking- I appreciate it.
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
That Shapeways process uses laser-sintered plastic powder, which means that it doesn't require additional supports: the unsintered powder holds up the lower surfaces of the sintered part.martan3d wrote:While they are ok, the face detail could be better.
The M2, as with all fused filament printers, requires support structures under (most of) the downward-facing surfaces, like those chins, noses, arms, and helmets, to prevent drooping. After printing, you must separate the support material from the object and, in general, clean up the resulting surface damage; that's more difficult with smaller features. You'll find Perfect Masters of surface finishing around here, but it's a manual operation requiring both skill and patience.
If the facial detail in the first picture is "acceptable", then you'll probably be satisfied with a fused filament printer. The details will look different, but not much worse than what you have. However, if that level of detail is "just barely acceptable", then a fused filament printer definitely won't fill your world with rainbows.
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
I happen to have a couple of little guys around that same size - in this case about 3.25 inches. Printed with .35mm nozzle and .16mm layer height (I think - might be .2mm or .24, I'm don't recall for sure). esun petg in translucent red.
The models is a repaired version of an 18th dynasty pharaoh in red granite. In this case, S3d auto-generated supports under pharaoh's skirt and between his chest and chin - the latter popped right off without a blemish.
Unfortunately, the details are a little difficult to see due to the material. It might give an idea of what you'll get, however. I have one in opaque black, but unfortunately he suffers from some surface quality issues stemming (I think) from me forgetting to update the filament diameter after changing colors:
He cold be worse, though.
The models is a repaired version of an 18th dynasty pharaoh in red granite. In this case, S3d auto-generated supports under pharaoh's skirt and between his chest and chin - the latter popped right off without a blemish.
Unfortunately, the details are a little difficult to see due to the material. It might give an idea of what you'll get, however. I have one in opaque black, but unfortunately he suffers from some surface quality issues stemming (I think) from me forgetting to update the filament diameter after changing colors:
He cold be worse, though.
Re: M2 vs Shapeways?
Guys, many many thanks for the input.